Everything is in place at Domaine Denis Mortet: thoughtful viticulture, with cultivated soils, high hedges (at 1.5 meters, the limit for a tractor), and judicious rather than systematic pruning, as well as winemaking with an increasing emphasis on hand-picking, where the branches of each bunch are cut by hand, leaving the berries on the pedicels intact. In the cellar, François Frères gives way to barrel, but without the accompanying shift in style towards outright mercantilism. The profile of the wines is characterized by suppleness and flavor, depth and fleshiness at the core, without structural sharpness. These are wines that can be drunk young - as no doubt many consumers drink them today - but that will also age gracefully. In short, Denis Mortet is at the pinnacle of his craft today and has settled into his modern style, and all of the wines, we recommend.
The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru is completely de-stemmed and aged in 70% new oak. It offers a very expressive bouquet with aromas of raspberries, wild strawberries, rose petals, and a hint of orange zest. The palate is dominated by silky tannins, perfect acidity, and a light, jammy consistency. Restrained and refined, this wine will evolve and delight for two decades.
The Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru "Lavaux St-Jacques" is one of the most prestigious Premier Cru vineyards in Gevrey-Chambertin, located in the Côte de Nuits of Burgundy. Covering about 9.5 hectares, the vineyard is situated at the mouth of the Combe de Lavaux, a valley that influences the microclimate, resulting in cooler conditions compared to neighboring vineyards like Clos Saint-Jacques. This climate leads to slower ripening, contributing to the wine's elegance and complexity. The vineyard is planted primarily with Pinot Noir, growing on shallow, rocky soils rich in clay and limestone, which are ideal for producing wines of great depth and structure. Lavaux St-Jacques wines are renowned for their deep color, intense aromas of red fruit, and a balance of power and finesse. While they are more delicate than some of their counterparts, they exhibit a long, elegant finish and are highly age-worthy. Benefiting from both southern exposure and cooling winds from the valley, the vineyard's unique terroir allows the wines to develop complexity while maintaining freshness. This balance of ripeness and acidity makes Lavaux St-Jacques wines suitable for long aging, often improving over decades.