Alexandre Chartogne has released an interesting set of wines from the 2018 vintage, a year that exhibits some variability. The hallmark of these new releases is their vibrant expression of terroir and diversity, particularly notable in such a warm year. The Champagne is fermented and aged in barrels, imparting subtle woody tones. However, the oak enhances texture and depth without disrupting the wine's balance.
Champagne Chartogne-Taillet Les Couarres Extra Brut 2018: The dosage is 4-5 grams per liter, with dégorgement in February 2023. This wine is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, fermented and barrel-aged in a style that can be best described as ‘Burgundian’ in inspiration. The 2018 Les Couarres Extra Brut is not a mass-produced corporate product. Notes of silk, quince, spices, and wet stone (derived from the tuff soil) add an exotic touch to the flavor profile. The taste is pronounced, with high acidity that highlights the precision of this Champagne's craftsmanship. It is recommended to drink between 2024 and 2033. Notably, Alexandre Chartogne worked with Anselme Selosse, whose approach to viticulture significantly influenced him, though their winemaking styles are markedly different.
The Les Couarres vineyard is located in the center of the Merfy terroir, in the least well-drained area of the village. Two types of soil are found on this site: tuff and clay. Chartogne-Taillet works both plots almost equally, benefiting from greater moisture reserves than neighboring plots. This helps maintain the moisture levels necessary to prevent water deficits in the vines planted in this lieu-dit. While many soils in the village dry out quickly and can be ploughed shortly after rain, the lieu-dit Les Couarres requires patience. Due to this and the topography of the site, the vines here are particularly susceptible to frost. The yields from this plot are the most generous in Chartogne-Taillet’s holdings and often need to be controlled through intensive pruning and the removal of every second shoot. The wines from Les Couarres are the slowest to develop, requiring careful handling and protection to avoid rapid oxidation. Chartogne-Taillet considers it essential to protect these Champagnes from oxygen right from the pressing stage, opting for barrels that have held two or three wines and are stored in a humid cellar environment. Attention is also paid to controlling the ‘angel’s share’ (evaporation) to prevent the wine from weakening due to excessive contact with air. The barrels in which these wines are aged are regularly topped up to minimize air exposure.