Cantina Piero Busso, established in 1953 and located in Neive, Italy, is a family-run winery renowned for producing classic Piemontese wines such as Barbaresco, Barbera, and Dolcetto. The estate spans approximately 10 hectares, with vineyards situated in prestigious crus including Albesani, Gallina, and San Stunet.
The winery's philosophy emphasizes respect for the land and minimal intervention, both in the vineyard and the cellar. Since 2019, the vineyards have been certified organic, reflecting the family's commitment to sustainable viticulture. In the cellar, traditional methods are employed, including spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts and extended maceration periods of up to 45 days using the cappello sommerso (submerged cap) technique. Aging occurs in large Slavonian oak botti, allowing the wines to express their terroir authentically.
The estate's flagship wines are its Barbarescos, each sourced from distinct vineyard sites:
- Barbaresco Albesani Vigna Borgese: Busso produces two cuvées from his 1.2 hectares in the renowned Albesani cru (the other being the Viti Vecchie, detailed below). Perched on the western slopes above Neive, Albesani is a standout among Barbaresco’s top sites. Alessandro Masnaghetti, in Barbaresco MGA, describes it as a place where “the combination of soil, stature, and exposure creates one of the greatest vineyards of the Langhe.” The vines here range from 30 to 70 years old, growing at 260 meters on soils of limestone, clay, and marl with an optimal southwest exposure. The wine underwent natural fermentation in tank and matured in 25-hectoliter casks for 26 months. It’s a quintessentially traditional expression, both in structure and fruit character.
- Barbaresco Gallina: Sourced from the Gallina cru, this Barbaresco is noted for its plushness and approachability, exhibiting great verticality and a pronounced tannic structure.
- Barbaresco San Stunet: San Stunet is the only Busso vineyard located outside Neive, situated in the village of Treiso. Spanning 1.5 hectares at 400 meters altitude on a steep 16% gradient, the vineyard's soils are predominantly yellow marl with a high limestone content. The southeast-facing vines produce the most expressive and profound Nebbiolo of this cru. Being a late-ripening site, harvest typically occurs about 10 days after the estate's other vineyards.
- Barbaresco Albesani Viti Vecchie Riserva: Produced only in exceptional vintages, this cuvée comes from vines planted in 1948 by Guido Busso, the great-grandfather of winemaker Pierguido Busso. These old vines, located on the steepest part of the Albesani slope, are of the Michet selection of Nebbiolo, prized for its exceptional quality and the intensity it imparts to the wine. The naturally low yields undergo fermentation with up to 60 days on skins. The wine is then aged for 36 months in a 10-hectoliter oak botti, followed by an additional year of bottle aging, unfined and unfiltered. The 2016 vintage yielded just 1001 bottles. The winemaking mirrors that of the Albesani Vigna Borgese, but this wine offers more body and intensity, with elevated tannins and acidity. Decanting and serving it in a Burgundy glass will reveal a Nebbiolo brimming with depth and personality.
In addition to Barbaresco, Piero Busso produces other notable wines:
- Langhe Nebbiolo DOC: The Langhe Nebbiolo comes from 10- to 15-year-old vines in the Neive crus of Balluri, Albesani, and Gallina. After fermenting in stainless steel, the wine spent 12 months maturing in oak botti and was bottled without filtration. It’s a beautifully traditional expression of Nebbiolo.
- Barbera d’Alba DOC Majano: The domaine produces two Barbera wines, both positioned firmly at the more structured and ageworthy end of the Barbera spectrum. In this context, think closer to the style of Cavallotto, with its focus on structure and longevity, rather than the more immediately appealing character of Sandrone or Massolino. This particular wine is the more fruit-driven of the two, sourced from the Majano vineyard in Neive, situated at 190 meters on sandy clay soils. Some of the vines here are over 50 years old, contributing remarkable depth and complexity. The wine spent 12 months maturing in stainless steel before bottling.
The Busso family's dedication to traditional winemaking and sustainable practices results in wines that are expressive of their terroir, offering depth, elegance, and a true reflection of the Langhe region's rich viticultural heritage.