When you walk through the vineyards of Piero Busso, you feel history under your feet. Take Albesani, for example — their oldest vineyard, with vines dating back to 1948. This tiny parcel, known as Vigna Borgese, covers just 1.2 hectares. Yields are modest — about four tons on average — but the vines here carry the family’s story. “This vineyard for us is our history,” Pierguido says simply. Many growers have replanted old vines with younger ones, but for him, replacing these 75-year-old plants would mean losing a piece of identity.

A landscape of crus

We’re in Neive, one of the four villages of the Barbaresco appellation. Eight of the estate’s ten hectares are here, surrounded by some of the most celebrated crus of the Langhe: Gallina in front, Santo Stefano just across, and Ovello visible further away. Albesani, Gallina, San Cristoforo, and others form a patchwork of terroirs where Nebbiolo dominates — 70% of Busso’s plantings — with Barbera, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc making up the rest.

Pierguido knows every slope, every exposure, and how the microclimates shape the fruit. Gallina, for instance, is more humid, prone to mildew because of its valley position, while Albesani benefits from stronger sun and better airflow. His work in the vineyard often means keeping as many leaves as possible to protect the bunches from burning in ever-hotter summers. 

Challenges among the vines

It’s not just sun and hail that Busso battles. Caterpillars have become a recurring problem. “Twenty-five years ago, nobody spoke about them,” he says. “But with earlier budbreaks caused by warmer winters, they now arrive right when the vines are most vulnerable.” The team spends six weeks each spring hand-picking the insects to save the young shoots. Spraying is an option, but Busso prefers to work more naturally whenever possible.

Whites, reds, and a changing climate

While Barbaresco is the heart of the estate, Busso has also experimented with whites. In 2021, he produced a pure Chardonnay fermented in stainless steel over eight months — no oak, no exotic fruit profile, just a crisp, vibrant wine with striking freshness. It’s part of his philosophy: make wines that are genuine, interesting, and true to their place.

Old vines, deep roots

Recently, the family expanded with a purchase of old vines from 1953 — another piece of history preserved. For Busso, old vines are not a romantic ideal but a working reality: their small berries, thick skins, and deep roots bring natural concentration and resilience to the wines.

A philosophy of respect

In the end, the Piero Busso family’s approach is simple yet demanding: respect the land, understand each parcel, and allow the wines to speak without unnecessary interference. Whether it’s Nebbiolo from Albesani or Chardonnay fermented in stainless steel, their wines carry the voice of Neive and the Langhe. These are wines shaped by patience, tradition, and a clear-eyed vision of the future.

The Lambier Wines range includes Piero Busso wines. If you would like to discover Barbaresco in its true form, please email us, and we will help you choose the right vintage for your collection or a special occasion.