Champagne Clandestin is a new organic property in the village of Aube Bucquières-sur-Ars, owned by Benoît Dusseau, the right-hand man of Bertrand Gotereau of Vouette et Sorbee. These are very mineral and austere wines.
This is 100% Pinot Noir grown on the cooler, west-facing, organically farmed slopes nestled in Kimmeridgian limestone soils in Aube. It was fermented in French oak and aged on the lees for at least 15 months. This is a clean, cool, fresh yet aromatic Champagne with intense yet subtle fruity notes and an almost steely iodine flavor in the background. Very concentrated on the palate, very elegant and mineral. The wine has a soft creamy-chalky texture. The iodine taste makes this wine not only an excellent aperitif, but also an excellent champagne in combination with fish, seafood and white meat.
Born in Beaune, Benoît Doussot made his way to Champagne in 2015 following a period at Domaine Fichet in Meursault. While working at Vouette & Sorbée, he noticed that organic growers were selling their grapes to large Champagne houses and local cooperatives without receiving any premium for their efforts. This observation motivated him to instigate a transformation. Presently, Doussot manages approximately 12 hectares of vineyards, which are tended by nine different winegrowers and spread across 18 parcels. In his quest for sourcing, he specifically seeks the second terrace of Kimmeridgian limestone. Each of his wine creations is based on a single vintage, a single grape variety, and this very same terrace. Their various orientations distinguish them. Vinification takes place in substantial 500- and 600-liter oak barrels, with vins clairs undergoing a comparatively extended aging period on the lees. These Champagnes are of exceptional quality and exhibit an elegant touch reminiscent of Burgundy. The sites facing north produce wines with a more finely carved profile, while those facing south offer a greater sense of fullness.