Champagne Clandestin: A Terroir-Driven Approach to the Aube Region
Champagne Clandestin was founded in 2016 by Benoît Doussot, a Burgundy native who ventured into Champagne driven by a deep respect for its craft and tradition. Despite lacking familial ties to the region’s historic wine industry, Doussot established himself as an independent voice, choosing to focus on the lesser-celebrated terroirs of the Aube. The name “Clandestin” reflects his unconventional entry into Champagne’s tightly knit community, emphasizing his approach as an stranger inspired by a love for the land and its potential.
Beginnings in the Côte des Bars
Doussot’s path to founding Champagne Clandestin began with an apprenticeship at Champagne Vouette & Sorbée, an esteemed producer known for natural-style champagnes in the Côte des Bars. This region, located in southern Champagne, is distinct from the more central Montagne de Reims or Côte des Blancs. Its clay-limestone soils and diverse topography offer unique opportunities for expressing terroir. Recognizing this, Doussot collaborated with Vouette & Sorbée’s owner, Bertrand Gautherot, to establish his own project.
From the outset, Doussot chose to identify and source grapes from specific “climats,” a concept borrowed from his native Burgundy. These small plots are selected for their unique characteristics and potential to produce wines that are deeply expressive of their origins. This selection process diverges from traditional Champagne practices, where many producers rely on broad vineyard sources and long-term contracts.
Core Philosophy and Practices
Champagne Clandestin’s production philosophy is rooted in minimal intervention and respect for the natural attributes of the terroir. The winery avoids the addition of sugar in its wines, crafting exclusively Brut Nature cuvées. Indigenous yeasts are used for fermentation, and aging takes place in seasoned oak barrels, a method that allows the wines to develop complexity without overshadowing the characteristics of the vineyard.
Grapes are hand-harvested and undergo careful sorting to ensure only the highest quality fruit is used. The winery employs delicate extraction methods and maintains precise temperature controls during fermentation. Each wine is tailored to its source vineyard, with aging periods designed to highlight the specific qualities of the grape and soil. This meticulous approach extends to every stage of production, from vineyard management to bottling.
The Wine Range
Champagne Clandestin’s portfolio reflects its terroir-driven ethos. The primary cuvées, Boreal and Austral, are made from Pinot Noir sourced from vineyards with contrasting sun exposures. Boreal originates from north-facing parcels, while Austral comes from south-facing sites. Both vineyards are situated on clay-limestone soils, but the differing exposures create distinct conditions for grape development.
Other wines in the range include single-vineyard offerings that highlight specific plots:
Les Revers: A Blanc de Blancs crafted from Chardonnay grown in a north-facing vineyard with Kimmeridgian subsoil, similar to the terroirs of Chablis.
Les Grandes Lignes: Another Blanc de Blancs, sourced from a small, south-facing vineyard with Portlandian subsoil.
Each of these wines reflects the topography and geological nuances of its origin, demonstrating Doussot’s commitment to showcasing the diversity of the Aube.
Winery Location and Facilities
The winery is located in Landreville, a village in the heart of the Côte des Bars. The facility was designed with a focus on precision and respect for the raw materials. Fermentation takes place in small tanks and barrels to maintain the individuality of each parcel. Aging sur lattes is carefully monitored to ensure the wines achieve their intended structure and balance before release.
Production Details
The wines are produced in extremely limited quantities, reflecting the meticulous nature of Doussot’s work. Examples from the range include:
Blanc de Blancs Les Revers Brut Nature NV:
Appellation: Côte des Bars
Varietals: 100% Chardonnay
Vinification: Direct press followed by indigenous yeast fermentation and aging in barrels
Aging: 15 months sur lattes, 6 months in bottle
Soil: Clay limestone with Kimmeridgian bands
Blanc de Noirs Austral Brut Nature NV:
Appellation: Côte des Bars
Varietals: 100% Pinot Noir
Vinification: Direct press, fermentation with indigenous yeasts, aged in 600L French oak barrels
Aging: 15 months sur lattes, 6 months in bottle
Blanc de Noirs Boreal Brut Nature NV:
Varietals: 100% Pinot Noir
Vineyard Characteristics: North-facing, mid-slope parcels with Kimmeridgian subsoil
Vinification and Aging: Identical to Austral, but the contrasting vineyard aspect imparts distinct qualities.
Conclusion
Champagne Clandestin represents a thoughtful and rigorous approach to winemaking in the Aube. By focusing on specific plots and employing minimal intervention techniques, Benoît Doussot has created a range of wines that emphasize the region’s untapped potential. His work underscores the diversity within Champagne and challenges preconceived notions about the Aube’s role in the broader landscape of this celebrated region.