The Vintages of Béréché et Fils: 2023, 2022, 2021
For five generations, Vincent and Raphaël Béréché, along with their dedicated team, have cultivated 11.5 hectares of vines with an unwavering commitment to quality. The result is a portfolio of Champagnes that are consistent, expressive, and true to their origins. Each vintage, shaped by its unique climatic conditions, offers a glimpse into the challenges and triumphs of the year.
2023: A Year of Contrasts
Following the warm and exceptionally sunny 2022, the 2023 vintage brought a more variable climate to the Champagne region. The autumn and winter of 2022/2023 mirrored the previous year’s dry and mild conditions, but spring saw a notable return of rain. While this made vineyard work more laborious, the rainfall proved critical in compensating for the prior season’s water deficit.
Summer in 2023 was defined by sharp fluctuations. June opened with intense heat, but this was quickly followed by a significant drop in temperatures that lingered into early August. This period was a reminder of the region’s latitude – 49° North – where extreme heat is not the norm. By mid-August, temperatures briefly returned above seasonal averages before plummeting again at the month’s end. On 31 August, minimum temperatures reached as low as 3-4°C, signaling an autumnal shift just before harvest.
Despite these swings, the 2023 harvest turned out to be the hottest on record, with an average temperature of 23.2°C, surpassing even the previous record set in 2022. Yet, it was also marked by stark contrasts – extreme variability in temperatures and rainfall made careful decision-making essential throughout the growing season. Frost, scalding, and periods of heavy rainfall created unique challenges, pushing growers to adapt their approach during harvest.
Unlike prior years, 2023 avoided significant excesses. While the winter recharge remained incomplete, alternating rain and dry spells maintained water reserves at acceptable levels. This balance enabled vineyards to navigate a demanding season, resulting in a harvest shaped by the realities of climate change – dynamic, challenging, and reflective of the evolving landscape of Champagne production.
2022: A Return to Generosity
The 2022 vintage was a welcome reprieve after the trials of 2021, producing quality grapes in generous quantities. It was a year defined by exceptional sunshine, even surpassing the record set in 2018. Beginning in March, drought dominated the season, with rainfall reaching only half the seasonal norm between March and May. Most of the limited precipitation fell during the cold first dekad of April.
The warm temperatures that followed prompted early budbreak in Chardonnay, though a frost event in early April caused some damage. Despite this setback, the vineyards largely thrived under the prevailing conditions. The health of the grapes was exceptional, with minimal impact from pests or diseases.
Harvest in 2022 proceeded seamlessly. The fruit showed excellent balance, with ripeness and acidity aligned harmoniously. The wines reflect the character of the year – vibrant, balanced, and approachable. After the hardships of 2021, 2022 was a gratifying campaign for growers and a testament to their resilience.
2021: A Year of Hardship and Perseverance
In stark contrast to the generosity of 2022, the 2021 vintage stands as a reminder of the immense challenges that nature can pose. From early in the season, adversity struck with a series of frost events in April. On 7 April, temperatures plummeted to -7.5°C in some areas, followed by further frost episodes on 14 and 20 April. By mid-May, crop loss had already reached 28%.
The frost was soon followed by relentless rain, creating conditions ripe for mildew and rot. June brought only eight dry days, making vineyard management extraordinarily difficult. Growers faced immense pressure to protect what remained of the crop, taking significant risks to preserve quality.
July delivered yet another blow, with extended cloud cover and up to 200mm of rainfall in some areas. The wet conditions exacerbated losses, particularly from botrytis. Despite these setbacks, the surviving grapes held on, their slow ripening process offering hope for balance and quality.
Harvest began on 15 September, with meticulous care required at every step. The pickers gleaned every last bunch, often harvesting grapes individually. Pressing required exceptional precision to preserve the integrity of the fruit, ensuring that the juice retained its remarkable freshness and clarity.
Fermentations progressed slowly, concluding in November. The resulting wines from 2021 surprised with their character – clean, fresh, and balanced, evoking the qualities of vintages from the 1990s. This was a year that demanded patience, dedication, and a return to fundamentals, ultimately rewarding those efforts with wines of remarkable finesse.
Conclusion
The past three vintages at Béréché et Fils – 2023, 2022, and 2021 – reflect the dynamic and evolving nature of Champagne’s climate. From the challenges of 2021 to the generosity of 2022 and the contrasts of 2023, each year tells a story of adaptation, resilience, and an unyielding pursuit of quality. Vincent, Raphaël, and their team continue to uphold their legacy, producing wines that honor both their heritage and the singular character of each vintage.