Champagne used to be such a simple thing. You popped the cork, and the gushing fountain of champagne evoked festive joy. Perhaps you had a preference among the styles of the major champagne producers, or grand marques. Or maybe you were just picking a brand.
The evolution of Champagne epitomizes something hedonistic. Champagne, as we now know, is much more complex than elegant cotton and bubbles. It is now a jacket, a dirt, the art of the cellar master, and most importantly, an expression of place. There are big houses and small producers, oxidative and reductive styles, and it's all enough to stop any party before it starts. Now Champagne is not one big amorphous place, as marketing has long claimed. The Champagne region is made up of dozens of small villages, each with its special terroir and character.
It is no longer enough to understand that non-vintage Champagne is a blend of a few years. We now need to know the base vintage included in the blend and the dégorgement of each bottle. Even thin, elegant glasses called "flute" are no longer acceptable, as there is a widespread belief in Champagne lovers' circles that they do not reflect the complexity of the wine, however beautiful they may be. Conventional wine glasses are now favored.
Marketers yearn for the former simplicity, and not just for champagne. Throughout the wine industry, they argue that wine is too complex for most people and that this complexity repels consumers. Far better to simplify the choice - the preferred term is "demystify". But demystifying is too often synonymous with dumbing down. The beauty of wine lies in its magnificent variety. Of course, it is complex. Those who don't want to get into the details can easily get help - from good merchants, sommeliers, and even wine critics.
Similar to politics, the wine industry faces a decision. Do you deliver a simple message in which complexities are set aside because they distract from the goal? Or do you present the situation in all the complex details, hoping voters or consumers will appreciate the nuances and make the best choice?
With champagne, consumers can do things the old-fashioned way, ask for their favorite big brands as if it were still 1990. Or they can cast aside their trepidation, throw off the marketers' blinders, and explore the confusing and sometimes perplexing world of Champagne as it is understood today. The aim is not to master the artistry, but simply to recognize and enjoy all its subtle manifestations.
Reflecting on the holidays, when more sparkling wines are being purchased around the world, we recently tasted a dozen rosé wines but wanted to share our thoughts on one.
The fact is that recent releases from Champagne De Sousa have impressed us. Founded in the 1950s in the village of Avize, the estate is certified organic and biodynamic, and the aging process takes place in a variety of tanks: stainless steel, oak, and ceramic. The style is elegantly understated and texturally seamless, showing considerable depth and character.
Cuvee des Caudalies Rose is a blend of Chardonnay (90%) and Pinot Noir (10%). The Chardonnay is vinified in small barrels for six months, with regular stirring giving it a characteristic smoothness. Pinot Noir undergoes a year in barrels, which gives it a full-bodied character. The average age of the vines is over 60 years. The wine has an aging potential of 8 to 15 years.
The latest version of De Sousa's NV Brut Rosé Cuvée des Caudalies is very beautiful, opening with delicate aromas of tangerines and freshly baked bread mixed with subtle hints of dried fruits, cherry pits and spices. Elegantly vinous and layered, it is concentrated yet restrained, with a smooth profile enlivened by a pearlescent mousse, finishing with a salty finish. In a word - hedonistic!
You really can't go wrong with this Champagne, as well as other names to look out for, such as Pierre Gimonnet, Larmandier-Bernier, or Chartogne-Taillet, especially if the 'way' itself is key for you.