This article looks at the dynamics of several older vintages (dating back to the 1930s) of Domaine des Lambrays' historic Grand Cru Clos des Lambrays, and briefly touches on the winery's history.
For those looking to delve deeper into the history of Domaine des Lambrays, visit, have a vertical tasting of vintages from different decades, and understand the philosophy of those who create this historic wine, the team at Lambier Wines offers the opportunity to organize private trips to Domaine des Lambrays. For more information, please get in touch with us.
Clos des Lambrays represents one of the oldest and most famous Grand Cru in Burgundy, first mentioned (as Cloux des Lambreys) in the documents of the Abbey of Citeaux in 1365. This vineyard is also the largest estate in Burgundy and is almost entirely under single ownership. During the French Revolution, the estate was divided among more than 70 owners, and it was not until 1868 that Clos des Lambrays effectively became a monopoly.
In the 19th century, the Clos des Lambrays vineyard was classified as a "première cuvée", but the creation of Burgundian appellations in the 1930s was a time of difficulty for it, and Grand Cru status was not granted. (During that period, Clos de la Roche and Clos Saint-Denis in Morey-Saint-Denis were granted Grand Cru status in 1936, and Clos de Tart in 1939).
Despite creating a few outstanding wines, such as those from the '37 and '45, the vineyard became mired in chaos over time due to many dying vines being left without replanting. In the 1970s, the owners largely neglected to manage the estate. Some crops from the 1970s were even left un-bottled. At the time, the estate was referred to by locals as Clos Délabré (abandoned).
In 1979, Domaine des Lambrays changed ownership and in 1996 there was another change of ownership (the value of the transaction was the equivalent of 15 million euros at the current date). The new owners then invested additional funds in replanting and renewing the Domaine des Lambrays vineyards. They have also made improvements by tightening the selection of grapes on the sorting table, acquiring a softer and more efficient pneumatic press, and setting up a greenhouse on the estate.
In the spring of 2014, Morey-Saint-Denis was puzzled by the news that the luxury group Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH), owned by Bernard Arnault, had acquired Domaine des Lambrays for an astounding €105 million. In addition to the main Clos des Lambrays site (8.66 hectares), LVMH also became the owner of about a hectare of Morey-Saint-Denis village vines, as well as a little over 0.3 hectares of Morey Premier Cru. Additionally, their assets included small plots in Puligny-Montrachet Clos du Caillerets and Les Folatières.
With the subsequent acquisition of neighboring Clos de Tart in 2017 by François Pinault's Artémis (which also owns Château Latour, Château Grillet, and Eiseley Vineyard in the Napa Valley, as well as Domaine d'Eugénie in neighboring Vosne-Romanée), two of France's wealthiest men are now, one might say, engaged in a kind of civilized struggle on the slopes of Morey-Saint-Denis.
Today, the vines at Clos des Lambrays range in age from 35 to over 100 years old. Typically, Domaine des Lambrays produces four to six cuvées from Clos des Lambrays, and of course, they are all unique, reflecting the microclimate, the age of the vines, and the harvest period. If a cuvée does not fulfill all the criteria required for Grand Cru, it may be transferred to Premier Cru Les Loups, the base of which is the premier Cru plots of La Riotte and Le Village.
From the moment Brouin joined Domaine des Lambrays, he has consistently favored early harvesting of the grapes. His methodology has always stood in contrast to the approach of Sylvain Pitiot of neighboring Clos de Tart, who was known for his practice of late harvesting.
Brouin's approach resulted in the alcohol level in the finished Clos des Lambrays exceeding 14 percent only once (in 2000). He also claims that his harvesting strategy favors preserving the minerality and character of the terroir. There are rumors that Brouin regrets not delaying harvest in only 4-5 of the 38 vintages he has vinified at Domaine des Lambrays, including 1995, 2004, 2007, and 2008.
Brouin argues that Clos des Lambrays is the heart of Morey-Saint-Denis and makes the case that this vineyard has a greater diversity of soils than Clos de Tart. It is also emphasized that some areas of the vineyard are higher than any other Grand Cru in Morey-Saint-Denis.
In his descriptions, Brouin has always emphasized the finesse of Clos des Lambrays, describing it as an expression of elegant, cooler fruit and mineral character, compared to the more massive, oaky, and dark fruit-driven style of Clos de Tart. One can see that this Grand Cru is more focused on suppleness and finesse than power.
Although the plot of land where the Clos des Lambrays is located is essentially an extension of Gevrey Hill, this vineyard lacks the same power, muscularity, and density of the neighboring Grand Cru Gevrey.
In addition, its color is not as deep as that of Clos de Tart, particularly due to the use of vinification using whole bunches. Nevertheless, Clos des Lambrays has a pronounced concentration and richness, remaining bright and precise thanks to the presence of mineral nuances.
In colder years, Clos des Lambrays can give the impression of some spice at the outset due to a combination of early harvesting and the application of vinification using whole bunches. This approach can give the young wines expressive hints of pepper, spice, flowers, menthol, and even eucalyptus.
Nevertheless, Clos des Lambrays promises seductive flavors from the outset, and its refined tannins and fine minerality create a harmonious development in the bottle.
The 21st-century vintage shows more consistent density than previous years of Clos des Lambrays while retaining the unique combination of wildness and finesse that characterizes this Grand Cru. It will be fascinating to follow what innovations and changes the talented Jacques Devauges will bring to this unique site in the coming years.