I won't venture to call this an article; rather, it will be personal tasting notes on a prestigious cuvée, Comtes de Champagne (first released in 1952, setting a record of excellence that is still held by few Champagnes). Consider vintages from the 1970s onwards, hedonists who like a mature Champagne will have to seek it out, something the team at Lambier Wines can help with.
Those whose tastes lean towards big, low-acid, overripe wines may find that many Champagnes, with their pronounced mineral, high-acid character, and alcohol levels barely reaching 12%, seem lean, austere, or even harsh.
In some cases, they could be right, but this narrow definition of Champagne is a mistake that causes many wine connoisseurs to miss out on some of the most exciting examples.
Because the Champagne region is located in the north, as you would expect for growing chardonnay and pinot noir, Champagne is typically a refreshing, bright, and spicy drink that brings a sense of liveliness like a slap in the face on a winter morning. This style of wine is usually based on chardonnay grown on the chalky soils of the Côte de Blanc.
However, rich, dense, and tart wines comparable to the most full-bodied white Burgundies can be found in Champagne. These drinks will satisfy even the most demanding connoisseurs.
According to my view, it seems that Taittinger's Comtes de Champagne is as good as other outstanding bottles from this region. Comtes de Champagne is one of the most intense wines a wine lover can encounter, especially after some time in a bottle.
Champagne lovers will know that Taittinger does not have a late degorgement program, as the house prefers to release its wines and then allow them to develop in the bottle. For Taittinger, older vintages represent a great rarity. It's hard to believe, but Taittinger has only started to actively store significant volumes of its wines in the last 20-25 years. The total production of Comtes de Champagne ranges from 100,000 to 300,000 bottles per year.
In the 1970s, dosage often reached 17 grams per liter. Today, the dosage is closer to 9-10 grams per liter. Like many other houses, Taittinger has reduced dosage over the years in response to warmer growing seasons and general improvements in viticultural techniques, resulting in grapes that are generally riper than before.
In recent years, it has become fashionable to voice criticism of high-dosage Champagnes.
Young Comtes de Champagne is characterized by intense minerality and focus, with bright citrus, mineral tones, and floral nuances dominating its flavor profile. Over time, Comtes often develops a unique inner sweetness not found in any other mature Champagne.
Fans familiar with aged Comtes are well aware of the magical qualities this wine acquires as time passes. At its best, Comtes de Champagne is an utterly charming, appealing Champagne that few things can yield to.
Tasting Notes
Delighted by the 1971 Comtes de Champagne, I savor its inner light sweetness akin to the liqueur that is the hallmark of great aged Comtes. The finish, which can be characterized as delicate, shows hints of roasted coffee. The 1971 Comtes de Champagne still impresses with its exquisite mousse and refined personality.
The 1973 Comtes de Champagne is a Champagne noticeably richer and more powerful than the 1971. With a rounded and enveloping influence on the palate, this 1973 wine has superb depth and subtlety of texture. Hints of caramel and toffee add additional complexity. This is an exciting Champagne.
The 1975 Comtes de Champagne is a wine with truffles, mushrooms, and autumn leaves expressed in a rather open Comtes style. In the glass, the wine takes on a more delicate character; it is better structured on the palate than in the aroma. However, the mousse is not as fine as in the best vintages.
The 1976 Comtes de Champagne is simply magical. Retaining its creaminess, texture, and brightness, the 1976 wine has an exciting combination of characteristic citrus freshness, superb inner sweetness, and hints of more complex oxidative nuances. The 1976 wine has matured superbly and is a devastatingly fine drink tonight. Wow!
The 1981 Comtes de Champagne is a rather spicy and focused wine. There is plenty of clarity and freshness in the glass, with only the occasional faint hint of oxidization flickering through. This is a slender and restrained Comtes, full of elegance and harmony. In well-stored bottles, it will delight for decades to come.
The 1983 Comtes de Champagne is a composition of smoke, minerals, slate, lemon zest, and white peach. This spicy and superbly nuanced Champagne exudes a concentration akin to Chablis and abundant energy that permeates the character leading to a well-defined finish.
The 1986 Comtes de Champagne opens with layers of lime zest, flowers, and oak in a rich, creamy style. This opulent, refined vintage of Comtes impresses with exceptional longevity and an exquisite finish.
The 1988 Comtes de Champagne is a true rock star in the wine world! Still stunningly fresh, the 1988 Comtes wine features intense mineral tones surrounding an expressive core of Chardonnay fruit flavors. The color, aroma, and flavor of this Champagne are remarkably youthful, and the clarity in the finish suggests that the 1988 wine will delight for another two decades, if not longer. Mature Champagne lovers looking to seek out this mature Champagne should look to the team at Lambier Wines for help.
The 1989 Comtes de Champagne is a wine with a richer color than 1988, which also has a more expressive character. Aromas of candied orange zest, spices, and caramel emphasize the fast track of this wine. At present, 1989 pleases with its abundant texture and developed personality.
The 1990 Comtes de Champagne represents something in between the 1988 and 1990 wines. Light hints of roasted nuts give the Champagne a refined character that is perfectly balanced with a minerality that gives it freshness and vivacity. On the finish, bright floral and mineral nuances emerge, giving the wine added depth. The 1990 Comtes de Champagne has a rich texture while maintaining its lightness and is highly classy.
The 1993 Comtes de Champagne impresses with its remarkable freshness, richness, and layering. Mineral accents, slate, smoke, and citrus are just a few of the nuances that are evident in these rich and powerful Comtes. Comtes has managed to retain its freshness thanks to long aging on the lees before late degorgement.
The 1994 Comtes de Champagne offers a wide range of ripe, almost tropical fruit in a full-bodied style while maintaining outstanding clarity and precision. Fragrant and elegant, the 1994 demonstrates perfect balance.
As for the 1995 Comtes de Champagne, this expresses fantastic intensity in the aromas of fresh-cut flowers and Asian spices. This vintage is multi-layered and flavourful, showing great richness and intensity surrounded by a powerful mineral framework. The tension between ripeness and minerality simply captures the imagination.
The 1996 Comtes de Champagne is a Champagne devoid of flaws, exceptional in every respect. Ascetic and still extremely youthful, the 1996 is characterized by expressive, penetrating acidity and impressive structure. To drink: from 2016 to 2036.
The 1998 Comtes de Champagne is a completely different experience. This is a sensual, impetuous Comtes, with superb fruit intensity and open, expressive aromatics. This is an impressive and attractive Comtes that is likely to continue to develop successfully in the bottle for at least another decade. Optimal period: from 2010 to 2025.
The year 2008 epitomizes a warm yet fresh climate that perfectly reflects the continental characteristics of Champagne. Comtes 2008 expresses the contrast between sunshine and cool temperatures, providing a rich, crystal-clear embodiment of the chalky terroir of the Grand Cru Côte de Blanc, which gives it uniqueness, character, and precision.
The Comtes De Champagne 2011 is created using first-pressed juice. A small percentage (5%) of the blend is aged in fresh oak barrels to create a very fine balance of toasted tones in the final wine. Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs is left to age for up to 10 years in chalk quarries near St Nicaise. The fragrance is transported to a world of maturity and voluptuousness. It exudes delightful aromas of gingerbread, licorice, almond pastry, and meringue.
Text by François Dubois