When in Champagne, do you often pass by a Champagne House that is spoken of with fervor? In the case of Ulysse Collin, there is one answer to this rhetorical question, and that is that a Champagne lover would be forgiven for passing by the Champagne House of Ulysse Collin.
And the point here is not that Ulysse Collin is not spoken of with fervor, but rather the opposite. The point is that Ulysse Collin is located in a small village in the Côteaux du Petit Morin, a simple, rural setting with no prestigious Champagne houses nearby. This landscape is very different from what is typically found in other regions of Champagne, even the less developed ones.
While many of Olivier Collin's associates are surrounded by fellow producers, Olivier prefers to behave more independently. Rather than revolving around social connections, he prefers to focus on the vineyards, the wine cellar, and wine production. That's the professional focus of his attention. And the result is in the glass.
A trip to Burgundy and an apprenticeship with Anselme Selosse in the early years proved to be an experience that significantly shaped Olivier Collin's outlook. Unsurprisingly, Collin's Champagne reflects many stylistic traits with Selosse's wines, including the vinous richness and textural resonance achieved through the use of more mature grapes and aging in oak barrels.
Significantly, Olivier Collin has strong views on the speculation that increasingly surrounds his wines. Olivier only works with merchants who know who they are selling wine to, who explain what Ulysse Collin is and the philosophy behind the House. And believe us, these are not marketing words at all.
For Olivier Collin, the flavor of a wine is closely linked to the clay and mineral composition of the soil, especially the interaction between the roots and the healthy circulation of the plant's sap. Collin therefore has a clear need to maintain a constant and dynamic microorganism activity in the soil.
For Olivier Collin, protecting the foliage is a secondary concern, as it does not affect the quality of the mineral salts in the soil that feeds the plant. His pragmatic approach to winemaking means that he pays more attention to the flavors of the wine than to the sanitary conditions of the vineyard.
Olivier Collin has a deep respect for those who can manage with minimal copper in their vineyards. Olivier himself prefers not to use copper for mold control, preferring traditional methods. In his opinion, using copper to protect against fungi in his region is a risky approach. Copper, as a sterilizer, penetrates the foliage, which eventually falls on the soil, affecting it. So he sticks to using minimal amounts of copper to limit its impact on the soil.
At Ulysse Collin, the vinification is an effort to bring out the unique personality of each vineyard site according to its unique history. Collin strives to preserve and respect the unique traits of each site while minimizing its intervention.
The moderate use of oak barrels, natural fermentation, lack of filtration, and low dosage gives the impression that Olivier Collin adheres to a careful aesthetic in harmony with the Champagne House style.
Olivier is original in his approach, not repeating the methods of his father or grandfather. Maybe his great-grandfather used similar methods, like working with horses, hand plowing, special barrels, and using indigenous yeasts, dispensing with modern enology. Through wine, he seeks his roots.....
When asked what wines he aspires to create, Olivier replies: "I don't create anything. I accompany the forces of nature. We don't make wines of 'name', but rather wines of terroir".
Text by François Dubois