The 2022 vintage confirms that Burgundy has not lost its ability to surprise. How could the hottest and driest vintage since 1947 produce such juicy and sumptuous wines? The reasons, as we shall see, lie in the details, but one thing is clear: 2022 is another outstanding vintage in Burgundy, offering excellence in both red and white wines, as well as a diversity of styles, highlighting interesting terrain features and making Burgundy an exciting place to explore.

That 2022 marks a return to relatively 'normal' yields after several below-average years represents an added advantage. According to the team at Lambier Wines, this is likely to alleviate some of the pressure on the Burgundy market that has persisted over the past five years, mainly due to lower yields causing wine shortages.

However, the scenario could have unfolded differently. Although the frosts in 2021 destroyed enough of the crop to set the stage for a bountiful harvest in 2022, as the vines usually recover after a year, yet history almost repeated itself.

First, a cold April with temperatures below zero, followed by the hottest May in 50 years, and by the end of the month, Côte d'Or had a moisture deficit of more than 40 percent. June was also hot but with almost twice as much rainfall as usual. However, water came in handy. August was also hot and dry, although three showers helped to reduce water stress. But the second half of September leveled the extremes. And here begins the most interesting thing. 

What did all this mean for grape growers?

A small amount of rainfall at the end of August, together with morning humidity, triggered the ripening process, and by the end of the season, several grape growers reported a 1.5% increase in potential alcohol content over three almost flawless days. Thus, determining the optimal time to harvest grapes became more agonizing than usual.

What does all this mean for the buyer?

It helps to understand the range of styles found in 2022. As usual, determining whether a harvest is "early" or "late" is only possible by considering site-specific conditions, as grape genetics, agronomic practices, and terroir affect how different sites perform.

However, given this limitation, early 2022 wines are characterized by a delicate and beautiful style that may not be full-bodied enough. On the other hand, late-harvest 2022 wines range from deep and muscular to distinctly full-bodied and jammy.

Fortunately, the vast majority of 2022 wines fall between these extremes: they exude harmony and charm, and the alcohol content ranges from 12.5 to 13.7%, giving the red wines a peculiar combination of the light charm of 2017 with some of the depth of 2015, and the white wines are a slightly more open version of the 2020 vintage. In other words, this is an enjoyable Burgundy that will delight in both youth and maturity.

Conclusion

All indications are that while the 2022 vintage has produced a relatively abundant supply of high-quality wines, it should not be taken for granted. But for now, 2022 will give Burgundy wine lovers a welcome respite from dwindling stocks and rising prices. In their abundance, harmony, and flair, the wines themselves represent a welcome respite.

Text by François Dubois