Foreword

Georgia, rich in winemaking history, sits in the honored 'Georgia - the Cradle of Wine' section of London's Vinopolis Wine Museum.

We are very pleased to announce that we are about to introduce Lagvinari, the first unique producer of terroir Georgian wines, to our range. A detailed story about Lagvinari will appear in the next article, but let's discuss current developments in Georgian winemaking.

Shift in Emphasis

For the most part, Georgia still thinks about varieties without delving into terroir considerations. The level of emphasis on the term "appellation" in advanced wine countries is almost non-existent here.

Those who have visited wine shops in Tbilisi may have noticed that Georgian wines are most often shelved according to varieties rather than production zones. Although today the boundaries of these zones are clearly marked and strictly controlled according to the current legislation, they only refer to the origin of the grapes.

For example, if the label says "Kindzmarauli", the grapes must be grown exclusively on the left bank of the Alazani River, in the Kindzmarauli zone. Whereas if the label says "Mukuzani", the wine is made from grapes grown in the Mukuzani zone. 

Nevertheless, with this approach, there are no clearly defined quality guidelines. This leads to a rather large number of weak and cheap wines appearing on the market, leaving consumers without clear guidance when choosing a drink.

It is not news to us that many people focus on a vineyard when choosing a wine, for example, in Chablis Montmains, many people bypass the word "Chablis" and focus on "Montmains", a Premier Cru vineyard.

In response to this problem, some advanced producers decide to change their emphasis. Recognizing that the appellation system has become part of the mass segment, they are shifting their focus from the place of origin to the varietal composition of the grapes.
 

Label metamorphosis: when "Rkatsiteli" is more important than "Tsinandali"

Producers choose labeling tactics where "Rkatsiteli" (grape variety) is more highlighted than the traditional "Tsinandali" (classic zone of production). In this way, they seek to avoid associations with wines from large production facilities and are given the freedom to set prices. By labeling their wine as "Rkatsiteli", they avoid the price segment expectations associated with "Tsinandali".

Doesn't this sound familiar to you? This is the same path that Super Tuscany has been traveling.

Within the territories where grapes grow, be it Tsinandali or Mukuzani, enthusiasts are already trying hard to identify small unique areas in search of those that can be reflected on wine labels.

A significant leap in the development of Georgian winemaking occurred between 2006 and 2013 when the country faced an embargo from Russia. This event was the catalyst for Georgia to move away from Soviet winemaking traditions in favor of a modern approach. In other words, there was a shift from quantity to quality.

Imagine the scenario: many enterprises in the country had been orientated towards the Russian market for decades, producing mainly semi-sweet wines using standard technologies that were popular with the general consumer.

Suddenly, Russia rejected Georgian wines, which was a serious loss for the country, depriving it of a significant part of its income. In response, it had to actively reorient itself towards other wine markets with more developed tastes, and it is worth noting that Georgia successfully began to adapt to these demands.

Unfortunately, after the embargo was lifted, everything went back to the previous order: large plants started producing wines again, oriented mainly to the consumer's tastes, without introducing anything new.

This is a shame because there is everything for growth: there is a great demand for terroir wines and local grape varieties in the world, the consumer needs an alternative to Sicily, Burgundy, or naturalists, and Georgia has something to offer. 

Georgia has every chance of becoming an export hit, provided it doesn't forget the basic truth of investing - don't put all your eggs in one basket. It should be remembered that no matter how good the mass segment market is, it is important to consider geographical expansion. 

The quality of Georgian wine is growing, albeit slowly, but it is mainly in the segment of tiny producers, such as Lagvinari. 

Micro farms specializing in kvevri wine production are offering small batches for export to Europe and other regions, even finding their way onto the menus of highly rated restaurants such as those with two or three Michelin stars. The demand for authenticity in the premium segment of the market is growing year after year and with it the interest in Georgian wines. 

Conclusion

The market is facing growing demand from new-wave consumers for wines that reflect a unique location. Therefore, the future of Georgian winemaking lies in the in-depth study of terroirs and the application of modern production methods.

In the following article, we will take a closer look at one such producer, namely Lagvinari, directed by Dr Eko Glonti.