Brunello di Montalcino: terroir and tradition
Set in a picturesque landscape of chestnut forests, pastures, and olive groves, Brunello di Montalcino appears as a vineyard oasis where Sangiovese vines thrive in harmony with the rich ecosystem that surrounds them. In this idyllic setting, the vineyards produce harvests that turn into wines of outstanding quality, from bold commune classics to elegant, subtle expressions created by forward-thinking new-wave winemakers.
Exploring the essence of Brunello di Montalcino
Montalcino, formerly one of the poorest towns in Tuscany in the 1970s, has now risen to the ranks of true Italian winemaking nobility. The population of the hilltop commune barely exceeds 6,000.
The slopes of Montalcino, ranging from 120 to 650 meters above sea level, are characterized by a diverse soil composition. The lower areas consist of loose soils, which as you ascend gradually change to denser, stony particles formed by the decomposition of marl and limestone. This intricate tapestry of terroir forms the basis for 1,450 hectares of vineyards, covering just 15% of the commune's total area.
The rest is pastureland, providing shelter to wild boar, roe deer, and a host of rare wildlife including owls, eagles, and porcupines. Montalcino's 250 winemakers cherish this balance and refrain from planting vines on these wild lands, considering them vital to creating the ideal environment for vine development.
Sangiovese reigns supreme
At the heart of Montalcino's winemaking heritage is Brunello, the local clone of Sangiovese. This noble grape variety is the exclusive protagonist, authorized to produce the flagship wines Brunello di Montalcino DOCG and Rosso di Montalcino DOC.
The meticulous winemaking process for Brunello di Montalcino involves aging for four years, of which at least two years are spent in oak barrels and another four months in bottles before the wine makes its market debut. On the other hand, wines labeled Rosso di Montalcino DOC can be sold after just one year in the cellar, and oak aging is optional.
Traditional Brunello is a muscular, stately wine with aromas of cherry, sweet spices, and tobacco. However, a breath of fresh air has prevailed in Montalcino, brought by new-wave winemakers. These visionaries are creating Brunello that defy tradition - ephemeral, airy wines made from Sangiovese that beckon to be compared to the great wines of Burgundy.
From Clemente Santi to Gianfranco Soldera
In the sun-drenched hills of Montalcino, where vineyards sprout through chestnut forests and olive groves, the history of Brunello di Montalcino dates back to 1869. It is the story of a commune that has grown from obscurity into an Italian wine gem, where the development of winemaking is intertwined with the pioneering spirit of personalities such as Clemente Santi and Gianfranco Soldera.
The pioneering spirit of Clemente Santi
The official annals of Brunello di Montalcino began in 1869 when Clemente Santi wrote his name into history by winning two silver medals at the Montepulciano Agricultural Fair for his "selected red Brunello 1865". This marked the first recognition of a wine that later became synonymous with the region. Meanwhile, in the Chianti Classico region, Barone Ricasoli was registering the "Chianti Formula", laying the groundwork for another iconic Italian wine.
Ferruccio Biondi-Santi, continuing the legacy begun by his grandfather, played a key role in shaping the history of Brunello. He meticulously isolated the Sangiovese clone, which has been instrumental in producing superior aged wines. However, progress faced obstacles in the form of the phylloxera epidemic, wars, and the world crisis. Despite the difficulties, by the early 1950s the Biondi Santi estate, under the management of Feruccio Franco's grandson, had become a beacon of winemaking in Montalcino.
The DOC system and more
The introduction of the DOC system in Italy in 1963 was a defining moment for Brunello di Montalcino. Among the first eight legalized appellations in the country, the commune was granted DOC status in 1966. This recognition sparked interest in Montalcino and investors began to gradually flock to the commune.
On this wave of enthusiasm, Gianfranco Soldera, an insurance agent from Milan, took a decisive step. In 1972, he purchased an abandoned farm a stone's throw from Biondi Santi and planted 9 hectares of vines, marking the beginning of the iconic Case Basse winery. Gianfranco Soldera was the commune's first artisan winemaker, becoming renowned for his meticulous work in the vineyards, unique spiritual connection with the terroir, biodynamic methods, and scientific approach.
Gianfranco Soldera: An artisan's odyssey
Soldera's vineyard, the heart of the unique Case Basse ecosystem, is a testament to his dedication to his craft. Surrounded by a botanical garden, it symbolizes a harmonious blend of craftsmanship and nature. In December 2012, however, tragedy struck: in an act of vandalism, Soldera lost almost all of his 2007-2012 wines. Undeterred, he refused the Consorzio del Brunello di Montalcino's offer to supply him with wine materials, sticking to his unwavering principles. Soldera resigned from the Consorzio and continued making his Brunellos under the regional appellation Toscana IGT until his death on 16 February 2019, leaving behind a legacy of integrity and passion that forever inscribed his name in the rich history of Brunello di Montalcino.
The 1970s was a time of transformation
In the sun-drenched hills of Montalcino, the 1970s marked an era of transformation that brought this tranquil commune into the global spotlight, driven by a series of ambitious projects and a relentless pursuit of winemaking excellence.
Banfi: American pioneers in Montalcino
The 1970s saw not only the emergence of Case Basse under the watchful eye of Gianfranco Solder but also the birth of Banfi, a project led by Americans John and Harry Mariani. In 1978, the Mariani embarked on a bold venture, acquiring 3,000 hectares of Montalcino's diverse landscape of forests, fields, olive orchards, and vineyards. Initially focusing on sparkling wines made from Muscat varieties, the duo soon switched to noble Sangiovese after realizing the potential of Brunello.
Teaming up with the venerable Biondi-Santi company, the Mariani's embarked on a pioneering clonal selection of local Sangiovese. The rigorous process resulted in the isolation of 160 different clones. Subsequent refinement led to the identification of 15 of the most promising clones, and this knowledge they generously shared with their growing neighbors. This collaborative effort coincided with Brunello receiving the prestigious DOCG status in 1980, marking Montalcino's ascent to winemaking glory.
As Brunello's fame grew, Montalcino became the center of attention, prompting the creation of appellations to accommodate the growing diversity of wines. Rosso di Montalcino DOC and Moscadello di Montalcino DOC appeared, offering an alternative and celebrating the versatility of Sangiovese. The grand finale came in 1996 with the introduction of Sant'Antimo DOC, covering all varieties registered in the province of Siena and legalizing the production of local Super Tuscan wines.
The boom was undeniable. In just 30 years, from 1978 to 2008, the number of wineries in Montalcino grew 13-fold and Brunello production increased tenfold. However, amidst this prosperity, a specter loomed on the horizon that threatened to tarnish the integrity of the region.
A stain on Montalcino's legacy
In 2008, Montalcino faced a reckoning. Some 20 Brunello producers came under suspicion, accused of breaking the law by adding international varieties to their blends. This unscrupulous practice was aimed at softening the flavor of the wine to make it more commercially attractive. The consequences were significant - the arrest of the 2003 vintage and a serious blow to the region's reputation. The scandal, which has gone down in winemaking history as 'Brunello-gate', has prompted winemakers to make a collective effort to regain market confidence and restore Montalcino's reputation as a beacon of quality.
Beyond the classics
In the undulating hills of Montalcino, where Sangiovese reigns supreme, there is a symphony of wineries that goes beyond the classics to reveal the depth and diversity of this Italian wine haven.
Castiglion del Bosco: where tradition meets nature
Located in the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Val d'Orcia National Park, Castiglion del Bosco is an organic oasis that embodies the principles of sustainable winemaking. This sprawling estate occupies 62 hectares of vineyards surrounded by a vast 1,200 hectares of woodland.
The combination of vines and wildlife creates a unique terroir that contributes to the excellence of the wines. Robert Parker Wine Advocate gives high praise, with the best wines receiving impressive ratings of 94-95 points. Castiglione del Bosco is a testament to the harmonious union of tradition and nature, creating wines that reflect the authenticity of Montalcino.
Casanova di Neri: A legacy of half a century
Celebrating 50 years of winemaking excellence, Casanova di Neri is an iconic estate in Montalcino. Founded by Giovanni Neri, a visionary grain merchant, the estate has remained in the hands of the Neri family for half a century. They have 500 hectares at their disposal, but only 63 of them are devoted to vineyards, while the rest are olive groves, arable land, and forests.
The Cerretalto vineyard, along the Asso River, adds a note of culinary luxury thanks to the cultivation of white truffles, proof of the region's ecological purity.
Poggio di Sotto: elegance driven by terroir
Poggio di Sotto, located on the southeastern hillside of Montalcino, offers not only breathtaking views but also a commitment to terroir-driven winemaking. Founded by Piero Palmucci in 1989, the estate practices organic viticulture, carefully tending 20 hectares of vineyards.
Spontaneous fermentation using wild yeasts, low yields, and careful selection of grapes define the winemaking philosophy. Poggio di Sotto produces around 50,000 bottles per year.
Montalcino's new wave
In the heart of Montalcino, a new wave of winemakers is "changing the landscape", bringing a fresh perspective to the timeless art of winemaking. Penetrating the southern and south-eastern parts of the commune, these young Montalcino are breathing life into once-abandoned farms and forests, seizing a unique opportunity to contribute to Brunello di Montalcino's heritage.
The story unfolds in the 1990s when local authorities extended a lifeline to aspiring winemakers - subsidies for planting vineyards. The task was not easy, but creating a wine with the prestigious DOCG Brunello di Montalcino label spurred the imagination of aspiring vintners.
One such torchbearer of a new era is Stella di Campalto, whose entry into winemaking was an unexpected twist of fate. A subsidy program caught her eye and in 1992, on an abandoned farm donated by her father-in-law, Stella planted the seeds of her winemaking dream. A decade later, in 2002, the Stella di Campalto winery opened its doors with 7.7 hectares of vineyards and 20 hectares of forest.
What sets Stella apart is not only its commitment to winemaking but also its unique approach to education. Forgoing formal wine education, she immersed herself in biodynamics under the guidance of Nicolas Joly, a prominent proponent of the movement. A sommelier course in France became her portal into the world of wine - an unconventional but deeply enriching journey of self-development.
Stella's vineyards tell a story of diversity: they are divided into 12 soil types and each plot is fermented separately to produce the perfect blend. In her winemaking philosophy, instinct is more important than convention - no barriques, no selective yeasts. The result? Wines from her estate have become highly sought-after treasures coveted by sommeliers around the world.
Opaque and bright, with aromas reminiscent of dried roses, exotic spices, and red fruits, Stella's wines pave the way closer to the nuanced style of Burgundy than to classic oaky Bruxelles. Her inspiration is palpable, drawing from the elusive qualities of Soldera wines - light yet complex, with a delicate balance that she strives to replicate.
For Stella, Sangiovese is akin to the complex Italian male, difficult to control but capable of astonishing beauty if given the chance to express himself. Her approach is one of balance rather than dominance, and this principle is echoed in her wines, making each bottle a testament to Montalcino's evolving heritage.
As we explore this new wave of winemakers, we discover a fusion of tradition and innovation, an exciting chapter in the ongoing saga of Montalcino.
Brunello di Montalcino DOCG: the jewel of the jewel
The apogee of all Montalcino appellations is the regal Brunello di Montalcino DOCG. Created exclusively from Sangiovese, known locally as Brunello, this wine bears the mark of careful winemaking. With a limited yield of 8 tonnes per hectare, Brunello di Montalcino must be aged for at least 4 years, including two years in wooden barrels and four months in bottles. The Riserva category requires even more patience - a minimum of 5 years of aging, including two years in a cask and six months in a bottle.
Rosso di Montalcino DOC: the harmony of youth
Brunello's sibling, Rosso di Montalcino DOC has the same Sangiovese pedigree but is characterized by a younger character. Released just a year after harvest, this harmonious ruby-colored wine has an intense aroma of fresh fruit and an energetic, refreshing flavor. Best enjoyed in its youth, Rosso di Montalcino reflects the vivacity of Montalcino's terroir.
Sant'Antimo DOC: a tapestry of possibilities
The Sant'Antimo DOC appellation stretches a canvas of varied red and white wines. Red wines, made from Sangiovese, Malvasia Nero, and international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Noir, provide winemakers with ample room for experimentation. White wines created from Malvasia, Trebbiano, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Grigio add elegance to the winemaking panorama of Sant'Antimo. The breadth of possibilities for creating "super Tuscan" wines combining Bordeaux varieties is remarkable, testifying to the innovative spirit of the region.
Moscadello di Montalcino DOC: a symphony of sweetness
Dedicated to the art of sweetness, the Moscadello di Montalcino DOC region shines in the production of dry dessert and sparkling wines made from Moscato Bianco grapes. The dessert wines are enchanted with aromas of ripe apricot and acacia honey, evolving into mesmerizing complex compositions. The sparkling counterpart, with its nutmeg nuances and floral delicacies, invites us to indulge in youthfulness.
As we travel through Montalcino's appellations, each sip reveals a chapter in the commune's rich winemaking history.