Purity, umami, nautical character, and a bottle of champagne share an invisible bond - the two worlds resonate wonderfully together. 

Many top Japanese restaurants value the philosophy of purity of flavor. Products are minimally processed and soy sauce is applied with only a thin stroke - all to preserve the authentic flavor, as Japanese chefs point out - the flavor of the fish itself at the head of the table.

The spirit of Japanese philosophy is evident in the creators of the champagne and the drink itself. Recoltan Manipulant is unwavering in its desire to create a truly terroir-driven product. Despite the vagaries of each vintage, he endeavors to preserve and express the freshness that makes Champagne so appealing.

Putting philosophical musings aside and turning to facts, umami acts as a bridge between Japanese cuisine and Champagne. In wine, this flavor is born from long aging on yeast lees. And in Japanese cuisine, umami permeates many dishes, adding depth.

The nautical spirit of champagne and Japanese cuisine also acts as a link. In both cases, freshness and purity are key!  

Champagne, like the ceremony of the tea route, requires adherence to strict rules set by the appellation. Any deviation from the norms threatens the loss of prestigious status. All experiments with organic products are therefore carefully framed within the framework of authorised procedures and materials. 

Passionate biodynamicists cannot simply substitute cane or beet sugar for local honey to initiate secondary fermentation, even if it enhances the organic character of their Champagne. Honey is the quintessence of natural purity, but appellation rules keep the process under strict control. 

Curious experiments are often the work of recoltant who have not been burdened by family tradition. These innovators most often dwell in quiet corners, far from Reims and Épernay. A particularly large number of experimenters are concentrated in the commune of Aube! This place resembles Chablis in geography and soil composition. This is also where the pioneers of biodynamics, Champagne Fleury, came from. 

Vineyards are seeing a wave of experimentation to adapt to new conditions in a world of changing climate. The challenge is to grow healthy grapes, bypassing aggressive treatments, just as Zen gardeners tend their gardens. These elements reflect a spirit of minimalism, harmony, and meditative tranquillity, reminding us of the values of nature.

In the world of Champagne, it is increasingly common to find wines created from the harvest of individual vineyards. Whilst 100% Pinot Meunier has long won the hearts of connoisseurs, the wines from rare varieties that form the basis of the blend are new to the market and bring fresh accents.

Etienne Calsac's Blanc de Blancs Les Revenants, for example, combines Pinot Blanc, Petit Meslier, and Arbane planted in the Cote de Sezanne. It is reminiscent of the Japanese respect for every detail, where maximum potential is squeezed out of each element.

And here we are on the cusp of food pairing. It's important to remember that the variety of fish in texture and fat content is as wide as the differences between zero dosage, which can stand out for their ripeness and residual sweetness.

Here it is important to avoid a black and white perception and approach the issue with a more nuanced understanding. 

Japanese sea bass (suzuki) - Kombujime Technique

Hedonistic Japanese restaurants use the kombu-jime technique to marinate sea bass. The fish is carefully placed between layers of kombu seaweed, lightly sprinkled with sake and salt, then left for five hours. In this process, the sake, salt, and kombu act like a sponge to absorb excess moisture, making the flavor of the fish more vibrant and intense.

This kind of sea bass sashimi, lightly spritzed with lemon juice, takes on an airy, slightly sweet flavor. 

The perfect duo: Blanc de Blancs with umami character, necessarily fresh degorgement, the still youthful acidity is leveled by lemon juice, this fusion of airy textures creates a truly hedonistic effect. De Sousa Cuvee Umami Grand Cru Extra Brut is also worth a look and would make a great accompaniment. 

Mackerel (saba)

This fatty version of fish, having gone through the process of salting, marinating, and gentle frying, reveals its flavor in a very bright and rich, smoky way, reminiscent of a bonfire by the sea.

The perfect duo: the mature Les Chemins d'Avize Grand Cru Extra Brut 2015 from Larmandier-Bernier, its acidity playing the role of a virtuoso samurai who masterfully ‘cuts’ the oily, rich texture of the fish while complementing and enhancing its maritime character.

Crab

Steamed crab is cooked to its maximum tender, and sweet, melting on the tongue. 

The perfect duo: here, the Blanc de Blancs category of Chardonnay with oak fermentation and extended aging on lees, such as Taittinger's Comtes De Champagne 2011, is best suited.

Chum salmon roe (ikura zuke)

In high-end Japanese restaurants, chefs carefully rinse each caviar. Then they marinate them in soya sauce and sake for twenty-four hours. The true indicator of quality is the absence of even the slightest damage on the surface of each one. The moment they hit your tongue, however, they explode, reminiscent of bright, refreshing sea splashes. 

The perfect duo: it is important to be careful here, ikura zuke is very intense in flavor and has a slight bitterness on the finish. It pairs best with piercing, youthful, and pure Blanc de Blancs. For example, a Blanc de Blancs from Pierre Gimonnet - its acidity and the saltiness of ikura zuke will harmoniously create a balance. 

Yellowtail (hamachi)

The meat of young hamachi has a reddish hue and a flavor reminiscent of tuna. Medium fat and quite meaty, when combined with champagne, the addition of a drop of soy sauce will help balance the overall picture with a brackishness. 

The perfect duo: Etienne Calsac's L'Echappee Belle Extra Brut is a perfect pairing. Chalky terroir is in the DNA of this Blanc de Blancs. Steely, spicy, electric, salty acidity will permeate the oily texture.

Sweet shrimp (amaebi) and scallop (hotate)

Hotate has a subtle sweetness and firm texture, while amaebi is sweeter and has a spicy flavor. 

The perfect duo: Champagne should be refreshing and energetic, but still in the brut category - the dosage maintains balance and preserves the character of the wine combined with the sweet flavors of hotate and amaebi.

Henri Giraud Blanc de Craie Brut is a terroir-driven, fine, creamy mousse Champagne, but with an inner energy that can maintain balance.

Text: François Dubois