Bereche et Fils, situated in Ludes in the Champagne region, is known for its commitment to traditional winemaking and its ability to adapt to climatic challenges. This article explores the 2019, 2017, 2015, and 2013 vintages, each marked by unique weather patterns and vineyard conditions, revealing the estate's resilience and craftsmanship.
Overview of the Estate and Vineyards
Domaine Bérêche et Fils manages an 11-hectare vineyard that produces approximately 120,000 bottles per year. The grape varieties planted are:
- Red Varieties: Pinot Meunier (57%) and Pinot Noir (43%)
- White Variety: 100% Chardonnay
The average vine age is 42 years, enhancing the complexity of the wines. Harvesting is done manually, ensuring the highest quality selection. The estate also supplements its own harvest with additional grapes sourced from reputable growers.
The 2019 Vintage: A Season of Heat Records
The summer of 2019 brought severe heat waves that had a profound impact on the vineyards. On July 24, temperatures in the region reached an unprecedented 42.9°C, testing the endurance of the vines. In contrast to the cooler harvests of past decades, this vintage marked a shift towards harvesting fully ripened grapes in warmer conditions.
While the intense heat caused leaves to scorch and some grape clusters to dry out, the vineyards benefitted from periodic rainfall in August that helped rejuvenate growth. Bereche et Fils started harvesting under challenging circumstances but found that the region's terroir preserved the essential freshness and minerality of the grapes, despite the climate's increasing warmth.
The 2017 Vintage: Frost and Determination
The 2017 vintage was shaped by an episode of severe frost on April 21, which affected vineyards across France. At Bereche et Fils, the frost hit particularly hard in the Ormes and Mareuil-le-Port vineyards, with more than 8,000 vines destroyed. Recovery was slow, and new growth did not appear until over a month later. However, higher-altitude vineyards experienced less severe damage.
The remainder of the growing season featured a balance of heat waves and moderate rainfall, which promoted vine development and reduced the threat of mildew. By mid-July, it was clear that an early harvest was likely. While consistent rain in late August delayed the picking, harvest commenced on September 4, requiring quick work to avoid deterioration caused by botrytis. Despite the difficulties, careful vineyard management, aided by reinforced teams, ensured the 2017 harvest yielded quality juice.
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The 2015 Vintage: A Drought Year with Quality Results
The 2015 growing season was dominated by intense heat and drought. However, the year began with abundant rainfall from autumn 2014, providing essential moisture reserves. From mid-May until August, dry conditions prevailed, which allowed for minimal vineyard treatments limited to copper and sulfur.
July and August were particularly hot, echoing the extreme summer of 2003. Grapes began ripening in early August, benefiting from steady, warm conditions until mid-month when the weather shifted to cooler, wetter patterns. The harvest at Bereche et Fils began on September 19, lasting 11 days. Chardonnay was picked later to maximize maturity, completing the harvest on September 27. Yields were down by 30%, but the quality of the fruit was promising. The Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir showcased rich fruit profiles, while the Chardonnays maintained their freshness and vibrancy.
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The 2013 Vintage: Delays and Triumph
The 2013 vintage started late due to a cold and prolonged winter, with temperatures in Reims dipping to -12°C. Negative temperatures persisted until mid-April, compounded by frequent rainfall, delaying vine development by more than two weeks. Some plots experienced millerandage due to the challenging conditions. The spring was marked by low sunlight and consistent precipitation, totaling over 200 millimeters.
The summer weather shifted dramatically, becoming dry and sunny, with over 800 hours of sunlight—a rare occurrence for the region. This allowed the grapes to develop well, supported by light rains in early September that promoted growth and maturity. Despite varied ripening across the vineyard, the Bereche et Fils waited for optimal grape maturity. The harvest began on October 5 and concluded on October 15, producing grapes in excellent condition with good health, signaling a strong vintage.
Conclusion
The vintages of 2019, 2017, 2015, and 2013 illustrate the challenges and achievements of Champagne Bereche et Fils. Each year brought unique conditions that tested the adaptability and expertise of the estate. Through careful management, respect for traditional practices, and a dedication to quality, Bérêche et Fils continues to produce wines that reflect the strength and character of Champagne's historic terroir.