The Huber Estate: Burgundy Traditions with a Baden Identity

The Bernhard Huber estate in Malterdingen stands as one of Germany's finest for Burgundy grape varieties. Bernhard Huber was renowned for his mastery of Pinot Noir, elevating German red wine to an unprecedented standard inspired by the traditions of Burgundy. His close connections with top winemakers and frequent visits to France shaped a distinct, terroir-driven style that influenced many others.

When his 24-year-old son, Julian, took over the estate in 2014, the bar was set incredibly high. Few could have predicted just how swiftly he would meet—and exceed—those expectations. In a remarkably short time, Julian has built on his father’s legacy, blending a clear nod to Burgundy with a strong sense of Baden’s identity. His commitment to quality has brought the estate’s wines closer than ever to their Burgundian inspiration while retaining a character that is unmistakably their own.

The estate's Chardonnays, which sell out almost instantly, are considered benchmarks in German winemaking. They've spearheaded a move away from overt oak and ripe fruit, emphasizing minerality and striking precision. Even the entry-level Pinot Noirs demonstrate exceptional quality and impressive ageing potential. Burgundy varieties are at the heart of the winery's philosophy, with local wines no longer labeled by grape variety. The vision is clear: a focus solely on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir—because, truly, what else?

Over two-thirds of the Huber vineyards are dedicated to Pinot Noir, a testament to their belief that great wines are crafted in the vineyard. With nearly 20 hectares planted to this variety, it's no surprise that the Pinot Noir ‘Alte Reben’ stands as the estate’s flagship wine. It has become a benchmark for the region, often setting the standard for others in its price range—a reputation echoed across the country.

Beyond still wines, Julian Huber also creates an outstanding sparkling wine, characterized by remarkable depth from extended lees aging. Gault&Millau encapsulates the winery’s achievements perfectly: "Individuality, immense sensitivity, and a willingness to take risks have propelled this exceptional talent from Malterdingen to a world-class level."

Approach and Style

Julian Huber crafts his distinctive wines from 28 hectares of vineyards, with Malterdingen at their core—a village steeped in winemaking history since the 13th century, when Cistercian monks cultivated the land and enjoyed "Malterdinger." The vineyards thrive on weathered shell limestone soils, which impart elegance, depth, and the structure needed for long-lived Burgundy varieties, mirroring the qualities of Burgundy’s Côte d'Or.

Many of the vines, originally planted by Bernhard Huber, are now recognized among Germany's premier Pinot Noir crus. The northernmost vineyard, ‘Bombacher Sommerhalde,’ anchors the portfolio, while the ‘Schlossberg’ in Hecklingen serves as a cornerstone for the estate. Towering above them all is the ‘Wildenstein’ parcel—an ultra-rare site that consistently produces one of Germany’s top three Pinot Noirs.

The vineyards in Malterdingen remain the heart of the Huber estate, producing the estate's signature local wines alongside the renowned ‘Bienenberg.’ Julian Huber employs sélection massale to refine his vines, focusing on the most exceptional parcels while letting go of others. His dedication centers on the two grape varieties he sees as the essence of the region: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

To fully appreciate the wines from the Huber estate, it’s essential to consider the evolution of their style over time. Few wineries have pursued their own stylistic path with such unwavering consistency, even when it defied trends. By the early 1990s, Bernhard Huber's Pinot Noirs were already setting new standards. At a time when many growers delayed harvests for more ripeness, he crafted complex Pinot Noirs with remarkable ageing potential that stood apart.

Under Julian’s leadership, the estate’s white wines have reached an exceptional level, often setting the bar for others. He skillfully shifts the focus away from fruit, highlighting the minerality that defines his vision for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Huber’s wines now exhibit a refined reductive quality, allowing them to mature slowly and unlocking their full potential over time. The Pinot Noirs are intentionally crafted with elegance and a cooler fruit profile, while the use of oak has been dialed back. The result is a unique sense of structure and tension—unmistakably Huber.

Julian Huber is clear about his philosophy: “My father believed that wines aren’t meant to be enjoyed immediately but perhaps in 10 or 15 years, when the tannins from the oak have harmonized and provided structure. I agree but have also embraced allowing more fruit expression, especially with the beautiful Pinot Noir. Compared to when I started, our wines, particularly the Pinots, now have greater balance and depth, making them purer and finer in texture.” (Der Feinschmecker 2/2023, “With Discipline to the Top”)

Demand for Huber wines continues to soar, with few other German estates enjoying such widespread acclaim. Thanks to Julian’s remarkable instinct and consistency, his wines have reached new heights—truly better than ever.