For the last few years, everyone has been talking about volcanic wines. We tell you what's so special about them and where to find them in the world.
Interest in volcanic wines and the terroirs in which they are born has long been strong. The subject is magical and sometimes mystical, and the wines are extremely interesting and unusual, with ashy and smoky notes.
A Bit Of Theory
Volcanic wines are wines from certain types of soils of volcanic origin. This category includes wines from vines grown directly on the slopes of volcanoes, active (like Etna) or extinct (Vesuvius). Moreover, the group includes wines from areas where volcanoes erupted thousands or even millions of years ago, like Gattinara in Piedmont.
Characteristics Of Volcanic Wines
- Volcanic soils are generally free of phylloxera, so vines in these areas are often unvaccinated and of solid age;
- The previous point leads to the fact that yields from such vines are extremely low, hence wine concentration is high;
- Volcanic soils have good drainage, which provides the vines with an optimal amount of moisture;
- Autochthonous varieties often predominate in "fire zones", making the wines particularly attractive to study;
- Wines from volcanic soils often show a mineral tone in the aroma. Although this characterization is still a matter of lively debate.
Types Of Volcanic Soils
The term "volcanic soils" is extremely broad and vague. There are a large number of varieties, formed by eruption or ash emissions. Basalt, granite, and tuff are the most common variations, often mixed with clay or sand. A thick layer of volcanic ash, such as at Etna, is also encountered.
Tuff is formed mainly from tephra, that is, ash and other particles ejected by the volcano. Tuff soils are common in Campania. One of the varieties of tephra is also pumice - it can be found on the island of Santorini.
Basalt is a basic volcanic rock formed by magma coming to the surface and is dark, almost black. Such soils are found in the Azores and Canary Islands, as well as in Oregon and Washington.
We will not go further into the maze of geology, it is enough for enjoying wine.
Where To Find Volcanic Wines
Italy
Perhaps the greatest concentration of "fiery wines" is in Italy, on the islands and the mainland. Of course, Etna is the first thing that comes to mind when volcanoes are mentioned. For a long time, the vines on the slopes of the Sicilian volcano were abandoned and nobody was interested in them. But in the 90's a real revolution started here thanks to a few winemakers who promoted the region to such an extent that today it is difficult to find a free plot on the volcano. Etna is now home to around 150 farms, of which 140 have emerged in the last 20 years alone.
The soils here are extremely diverse and consist of basalt, pumice, and a thick layer of volcanic ash. Due to the constant eruptions of the volcano, the composition of the soils is also in permanent flux and the vineyards are threatened by lava flows.
In addition to the soils, the terroir is strongly influenced by the altitude of the vineyards, from 400 to 1000 meters (and sometimes higher, outside the Etna DOC). The entire zone covers approximately 1,000 hectares and is divided into individual plots - contradas - the wine from which is particularly prized. The main variety of Etna is nerello mascalese, which is often mixed with nerello cappuccio. Among the whites, the first place is given to the plastic carricante, which produces mineral, non-fruity wines with high acidity.
Although Etna remains the only active volcano on which viticulture has developed, there are still many "fiery wines" to be found in Italy. For example, the island of Ischia. The soils here are made up of green tuff and the vineyards are well blown by the winds. Wines are made from local white varieties of biancolella and forastera and red piedirosso. Near Sicily on the hot island of Pantelleria on volcanic soils, Muscat is mainly grown. It is used to make aromatic dry wines as well as sweet wines, including the appassimento method.
On the southern tip of the Apennine peninsula, there are several "volcanic" appellations. All of them are in order. Grapes are cultivated directly on the great and terrible Vesuvius. There are four zones: Vesuvio DOC, Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco/Rosso DOC, and Catalanesca del Monte Somma IGT. White varieties such as Caprettone, Falangina, and Coda di Volpe are grown on the extinct volcano, as well as red varieties such as Piedirosso and Aglianico.
Near Napoli, Campi Flegrei DOC is also notable, where unvaccinated falangina, aglianico, and piedirosso co-exist on tuff and sand soils.
Another center of activity is in Avellino, where fiano, greco, and aglianico thrive on tuff soils. Volcanic appellations include Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo, as well as one of Italy's most prestigious Taurasi DOCGs, which can live and develop for many years thanks to its structure and high levels of tannins and acidity.
The volcanic character of the Basilicata region is attributed to the extinct Vulcan Vulture and the Aglianico del Vulture appellation. Although the topsoil is clayey, the subsoil is formed by basalt. Of the varieties, only Aglianico is allowed, which is planted on the slopes.
The Veneto region, in particular, Soave, was one of the first to promote its proximity to volcanoes. Any volcanic activity was observed here millions of years ago, but in some areas, the soils are basaltic, which, according to winemakers, affects the character of the wines.
In Piedmont, you can also find echoes of the long-standing eruption of the supervolcano Sesia. This is particularly evident in the appellations Gattinara DOCG, Gemme DOCG, and Lessona DOC.
Another Europe
A small piece of volcanic soil has been found in Alsace, more specifically in the southernmost vineyard of the Rangen de Thann grand cru. The vineyards here are the highest in the region, at 350-400 meters, and the soil consists of tuff, volcanic stones, and andesite.
In the southern region of Germany, the area of the former volcano Kaiserstuhl is responsible for the "fiery wines". This area is favored by the Pinot family, with pinot noirs being particularly good - fine, smoky, and juicy.
Millions of years ago, volcanoes also formed the soil in what is now Hungary. Tokaj, for example, was home to 400 volcanoes! Thus, a unique mosaic of tuff, andesite, rhyolite, and other varieties of volcanic formations can be found here. Dry Furmint and Hershlevelu are gaining popularity in the region.
Wines from the Canary Islands, particularly Tenerife, where the majestic Teide (3,718 meters) rises, have also shot up in waves. The volcano is now asleep, but the island has suffered several devastating eruptions, the last of which occurred in 1909. The resulting frozen lava and ash have been a blessing to grape growers, who cultivate local grape varieties on their roots. For a long time, the Canaries were talked about in terms of malvasia and sweet wines, but today, fine wines made from autochthonous varieties – white palomino and red - are at their peak. There are five DOs in Tenerife, but most of the vineyards on volcanic soils are in the north of the island.
Another island, Lanzarote, boasts lunar landscapes and vines suffering from volcanic soils. Because of the strong winds from the Atlantic, plantings are often protected by special stone walls - zocos or abrigos.
The Azores, distant from the continent by as much as 1600 kilometers, are responsible for Portugal's volcanic wines. Most of it is concentrated on the main island of Pico. Volcanic soils and high vineyard locations are the main formers of the region's unique terroir. The vineyards have walls of basalt (currais) that form a labyrinth. They also protect the vines from the winds. On the island, you can find amazing white salty and citrusy wines from the Arinto variety and more complex wines from Terrantez do Pico.
The strong volcanic influence can also be seen in the white wines of the Greek island of Santorini, which was formed by the violent eruption of the Santorini volcano between 1500 and 1640 B.C. In addition to its Instagram-worthy landscapes with blue roofs and white-washed houses, the island has long been renowned in wine circles for its autochthonous assyrtiko variety.
Santorini's terroir is truly remarkable: in addition to the poor, porous soils, the island has strong winds and an arid climate. Assyrtiko vines are often formed into baskets, otherwise, the destructive winds can easily break the plants. Since phylloxera is not present, there are many old vines on the island. Low yields and high acidity are other characteristics.
Recommended Volcanic Wines:
Azores Wine