Wine Expansion
We used to avoid wines from Ribera del Duero, except for those produced by Vega Sicilia, which has a longstanding reputation. In the late 20th century, there was a significant influx of investment in this elevated region located on the banks of the river in northwest Spain, known as the Douro when it crosses into Portugal. The expansion resembled the Napa Valley approach, with a focus on constructing impressive wineries rather than cultivating vineyards. Consequently, the region became filled with extravagant winery estates managed by individuals eager to secure grapes from local growers. This intense competition sometimes resulted in the use of subpar raw materials. In an attempt to meet the increasing demand, some newcomers planted vines, often using young vines or less suitable sites. At that time, the prevailing trend favored high-alcohol, dense wines with a pronounced oak influence. This, coupled with producers' attempts to mask mediocre fruit, led to the excessive use of new, heavily charred oak barrels, which were not always properly seasoned. Although this style was not our personal preference, many Spanish consumers adored these rich, flamboyant, and tannic wines.
The Greater Degree Of Freedom
Ribera del Duero emerged as a formidable contender to Rioja as Spain's leading red wine region, largely due to the success of Pingus, the highly sought-after wine crafted by talented Danish winemaker Peter Sisseck, which became the country's most expensive wine. However, Ribera del Duero now joins the expanding list of wine regions that have experienced a remarkable transformation, characterized by significant improvements in winemaking techniques and the emergence of intriguing, fresher styles.
Ribera offers a higher degree of freedom compared to Rioja. Young producers, there are venturing into truly fascinating endeavors. Ribera is experiencing a wonderful moment. Ribera del Duero possesses all the necessary elements to produce exceptional wines. Similar to many other Spanish wine regions, Ribera endures scorching hot summers (in 2022, temperatures soared to 46.8 °C), but its high altitude provides cool nights. The vineyards in Ribera are situated at elevations ranging from 720 to 1,100 meters (in contrast, Bordeaux's vineyards are only slightly above sea level), and the harvest often extends well into November, making it one of the latest in Europe. However, the summers can be short as well as blisteringly hot. Frost has been known to occur as late as June 6th or as early as September. As a result, sugar levels in the grapes can rise rapidly before the tannins fully mature. Modern winemakers now seek less aggressive tannins, and this means that by the time everything reaches optimal ripeness, the acidity levels may have dropped too low, compromising the wine's refreshing character.
The dominant grape variety in Ribera del Duero is unquestionably Tempranillo, commonly known as Tinto Fino or Tinto del País in this region. Well-crafted Tempranillo wines have the potential to age gracefully for several decades and exhibit a harmonious relationship with high-quality oak, both American and French. The old bush vines, with their deep-rooted systems, often yield grapes of remarkable balance that require minimal intervention. With the introduction of improved clones in newer vine plantings, there has been a gradual maturation process, and now nearly every producer recognizes the value of vine age.
A remarkable 23% of Ribera's vineyards are comprised of vines that are over 50 years old, while 10% surpass the 80-year mark. These ancient vines are particularly abundant in Soria province, the eastern elevated area of the region, characterized by its secluded small villages. The sandy soils here differ from the predominant limestone and clay compositions found elsewhere, and the sand has acted as a protective shield against the devastating effects of phylloxera. Consequently, producers in this area can boast the presence of ungrafted ancient vines that have never required the use of phylloxera-resistant rootstocks.
Similar to Rioja, an increasing number of Ribera del Duero producers are disregarding the traditional classification categories of Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva, which denote longer periods of maturation in oak. Instead, they are focusing on crafting single-vineyard wines or even a range of wines that aim to express the unique characteristics of specific terroirs. Many producers are also exploring alternative aging vessels beyond the conventional small barrels, such as concrete, clay, and large and/or old oak foudres.