In this article, we explored with our colleagues the current trends in Champagne winemaking: the use of minimal dosage (e.g. brut nature) and the barrique-touch method (involving barrels in the production process). Champagne production is one of the most innovative areas in winemaking today, and our discussions in this area were very exciting.

The first tradition-breakers and future creators of icon wines and fetish wines in the prestigious Champagne region emerged in the 1970s. Anselme Selosse, for example, returned to the family winery after studying enology and began experimenting. Rumors of his unusual methods spread through the town of Avize: the son of Jacques Selosse was doing something unprecedented. The locals were yet to be confronted with the concepts of biodynamics, the use of natural yeasts, the solera method, and the reduction of dosage in wines. It should be noted that at that time no one foresaw global warming and acidity levels in grapes were very high, so the use of sugar was a necessity for balance. Nevertheless, Selosse's innovative approach and his successful results resonated with the younger generation and he soon found like-minded pioneers. All these innovations have become an integral part of winemaking life in Champagne.

The important role of Francis Egly (Egly-Ouriet) in this theme is worth noting: he pays particular attention to the vinification of each zone in oak barrels. In his barrel-filled cellar, it is sometimes difficult to capture the atmosphere of Champagne, as it is rather reminiscent of Burgundy. Pierre Larmandier (Larmandier-Bernier), Benoît Dussault (Clandestin), and Sébastien Mouzon (Mouzon Leroux), who also adopts the solera method to develop reserve wines, also make extensive use of oak barrels. Nevertheless, the head winemaker of the house of Louis Roederer, advises caution when using oak, warning that it is better not to overdo it than to overdo it.

The renowned house of Krug has always adhered to the use of specially commissioned oak barrels with a capacity of 205 liters, made from oak over 200 years old. These neutral casks are only used after two to three years of use to ferment wort that did not meet their standards and are used to create their prestigious cuvées. The House of Bollinger is also a proponent of using oak barrels in Champagne production. They preserve barrels over 100 years old and even have their master barrel maker.

Dosage is riding the wave of success

With the advent of the popularity of healthy lifestyles and the growing interest in nutritional issues, wines with minimal added sugar in the dosage, and in some cases even without it at all, have become an integral part of super trendy champagnes. Advocates of various diets have become particularly strict on this issue. On the other hand, producers, to emphasize the peculiarities of their terroir and demonstrate their craftsmanship, actively reduce interference in the production process so that we can enjoy the wine in its original form. Brut Nature is a Champagne to start the day. It has an explosive freshness, citrus notes - all the things that wake us up even better than a cup of coffee.

Winemakers who consciously create low-dosage wines start from the vineyard: they reduce yields, change the way the vines are pruned, choose warmer locations, and harvest the grapes only at full maturity, often later than usual - all this to ensure that the base wine is rich, full and ripe so that long aging on the lees does not strip it of its excessive structure. It is then that the addition of sugar can be dispensed with. Increasingly mature wines are becoming more common in Champagne, thanks to or as a result of global climate change. Some years of the 21st century have seen periods of high temperatures in Champagne. Nevertheless, it is important to remember that low-dosage wines should be approached consciously, they should be approached gradually - not because of fashion, but because one wants to experience a sincere and pristine flavor, without make-up.

Touch of Oak Influence

Why does champagne wine need a barrel? Naturally, there is no need to enrich it with aromas of vanilla, coconut, buttered cheese, coffee, or spices, and certainly not to emphasize the tannins. The approach here is more subtle. Often winemakers use the barrel as a tool for controlled micro-oxidation of the wine to slightly balance its acidity and soften the underlying flavors. Usually, no new barrels are used, and it is more common to find large 2000-liter foudres in Champagne cellars. However, barriques are also found, with the classic volume for "champagne" being 205 liters. In the Côte des Blancs region, where they work with the outstanding Chardonnay varietal, a trend towards the use of new barriques is noticeable. Fresh oak helps to reduce excess acidity, leaving a soft, pleasant hue and roundness, merging with the bright acidity of blanc de blancs.

The use of new oak is observed, for example, at the houses of Henri Giraud and Larmandier-Bernier. Of course, only a small part of the final wine is exposed to new oak. Champagne winemakers are true masters of assemblage, and their cuvées are usually a blend of wines "cooked" in a variety of ways. A common variation consists of 60 percent wine aged in stainless steel and 40 percent wine from barrels, including 10-20 percent new. Ultimately, the proportion of wine that has been in contact with new oak is small.

What the solera system brings to the table

Another method of using barrels is the solera system, which has been used successfully for decades. The solera system brings deep aromatic complexity to a wine. It involves an oxidative component in the blend that instantly imparts tertiary aromas to the new wine. Neutral oak is typically used and the barrels are usually large.

Our Main Observations

We no longer pay attention to the mousse and the play of bubbles in Champagne: nowadays, the best cuvées do not have a pronounced gas, they are integrated, devoid of pungency and aggression. If served as an aperitif, it will wake up even those who are not hungry. In addition, we can conclude that champagne wines costing 200 euros or more should not be served too cold. The situation is as follows: while it is warming up, every minute adds to its appeal.