Appellations and wines that are not on the radar
Against the background of regular natural disasters in recent years or, on the contrary, successful harvests, Burgundy prices are constantly rising. So great names and famous appellations seem hard to come by. Nevertheless, hidden gems are emerging from the shadow of the iconic Cote d'Or - appellations that are not on the radar. We're not talking about inexpensive Bourgogne, but rather alternatives to the classic, well-promoted appellations. Each of them has its style, its own merits, its charm. This is how, even if you have impressive territories, you can get lost in wine lists, even though grapes have been grown on these lands since the Roman Empire.
The secret spots of the Côte de Nuits
Let's start in the very north of the Golden Slope, which has not been seriously considered before. Well indeed, what stars in the vicinity of Dijon, the territory of simple and reliable Burgundy for lunch? The northernmost appellations of Côte de Nuits, Marsannay, and Fixin, the coldest in Burgundy, have always yielded rough and not the deepest wines. But as the climate changes and viticultural techniques improve, the wines of these communes deserve a closer look.
Marsannay
Marsannay, covering the communes of Chenôve, Marsannay-la-Côte, and Couchey, is called the Golden Gate of the Côte de Nuits thanks to its proximity to Dijon, the administrative center of Burgundy. And it has its specialties. First, red, white, and rosé wines are allowed here under the appellation, and these are the only ones in the Cote d'Or and the best rosés of Burgundy. It was Bruno Clair's grandfather Joseph Clair, the grandfather of Bruno Clair, who started producing the future rosé legend and popularized it throughout France in the early 20th century. Secondly, for white wine besides chardonnay, pinot blanc is allowed here. Thirdly, Marsanne's winegrowers are actively working to upgrade the status of their lieu-dit to Premier Cru vineyards, but in the meantime, you can enjoy them at a more modest price. Stylistically, Marsannay is typical Côte de Nuits wines, reminiscent of neighboring Fixin and Gevrey Chambertin.
The reds are intense-colored pinot noirs, generous, supple, energetic, and quite powerful, fleshy, with a tonality of red and black fruits (cherry, strawberry, black currant, blueberry).
White Marsannay is imbued with citrus and white flower tonality (hawthorn, acacia), usually rounded and mineral. White meat goes with these wines: poultry, veal, pork with savory sauces. Also risotto, classic, or goat cheeses.
As for the pink Marsannay, in its freshness and pleasant volume, tones of peach and gooseberry, red currant, bitter cherry, white peach, and candied rose are distinct. They will stand up to the whole meal, from salad to summer barbecue, savory and Mediterranean spices, fish, and fruit desserts.
Fixin
Fixin is another Burgundian northerner, located between Marsannay and Gevrey-Chambertin. Specializing in red wines from Pinot Noir (there are some whites from Chardonnay), it has some serious premier cru. The specialty of Fixin is its brilliant dark purple color, good structure, density, firmness and excellent development potential thanks to its tannin structure and excellent acidity. Probably, one should not expect more lightness and finesse from it than from wines of classical appellations - it is a so-called "winter" dense Burgundy, with such a masculine tenderness. In addition to the palette of berries in the aroma, there are tones of game, sometimes even musk, floral aromas (violet, peony), and pepper.
Fixin are worthy partners of meat cuisine: braised pork or poultry, including curry variants. Don't avoid paella, tapas, or stuffed pancakes. Of the cheeses, Comté is an interesting option.
Santenay
Santenay is the southern tip of the Côte de Beaune, beyond which begins the Côte Chalonnaise. It's hard to say what Santenay specializes in more - winemaking or spa life with mineral springs. For centuries it has managed to reconcile the god of wine and the nymphs of water.
The vineyards are dominated by pinot noir, but on the very border with Chassagne-Montrachet, chardonnay naturally dominates. Beauregard, one of the region's famous premier cru vineyards with its noble limestone soils, is also located here. The local white wines are fresh and energetic, with a pronounced floral and minerality. Usually lush and relatively light, with a hint of nuttiness, these wines are good with creamy dishes such as risotto, pasta, or poultry. Goat and Comté cheeses are preferred. Red wines are bright, intense, and silky, with tones of red fruits and flowers (peony, violet, rose petals). Restrained tannins, flexible structure, subtlety of complexity. Best paired with slow-cooked dishes such as braised veal, rooster in wine with bacon, guinea fowl with Brussels sprouts, Asian-style glazed poultry, and burgers.