75cl
Champagne Ulysse Collin Les Enfers Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2016
Vendor code : 466
Ulysse Collin is a small champagne house. All the wines are in the Extra-Brut category. The latest releases from Collin are particularly good, with a rating of 97+ points being more of a regularity than an exception. However, it is surprising that Olivier Collin produces its Champagne wines in sub-regions that are hardly known even to Champagne aficionados (Val de Petit Morin and the Sézannais).
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A 2016 base, aged for 60 months on lees. Full-bodied golden colour, aromas of pear, lots of confectionery, pineapple, mango, popcorn, brioche, and more. Powerful, full-bodied but balanced, very interesting evolution in the glass, fresh, tasty citrus fruit, excellent oak, minerality, saltiness. Reminiscent of the Montrachet. To drink now or tolerate and hold until 2043.
Ulysse Collin is the only estate in Champagne that produces wines exclusively from individual vineyards: Les Pierrierres, Les Maillons, Les Roises, and Les Enfers. Each vintage is a reflection of one particular terroir. Leading the Champagne estate is Olivier Collin, an inheritor of the winemaking tradition. Olivier's family has been involved in winemaking since 1812 in Coteau du Petit Morin. After the Second World War, René Collin (Olivier's grandfather) increased the family estate's holdings to 18 hectares, began producing his own Champagne wines, and was a respected member of the Club des Viticulteurs Champenois until the 1980s. But in 1987, Olivier's father sold the company and began leasing all the vineyards and cellar to a major brand, effectively ending independent production. As a young student, Olivier took a trip to Burgundy that ultimately changed his life. It was a truly introspective experience and he immediately fell in love with the wines of the region. This sparked a desire to not only reclaim his family's land but also greatly influenced his philosophy of working in the future. Olivier entered law school in 1995 with the secret intention of using the knowledge he had gained to fulfill the daunting task of recovering 8.7 hectares of family estate land from a major negociant. Almost ten years later, Olivier completed a six-month course in viticulture (all the while continuing his studies in law). In 2003, Olivier successfully restored 4.5 hectares of the family estate's vineyards to lease. Starting from scratch, his first purchase was a second-hand tractor so that he could cultivate soils that had not been plowed for 18 years! His second investment was the purchase of used Burgundy barrels (at least four years old). Unfortunately, 2003 proved to be a very difficult year. Olivier had to sell all the grapes to stay solvent and prepare for the next growing season. In the year 2004, Olivier launched his initial vintage of Champagne, producing a total of 5,400 bottles. In 2005, Olivier returned another 4.2 hectares of vines, three of which belonged to his grandparents, as well as the entire winery (including the historic Coquard press) and aging cellar. Olivier does not work according to either organic farming or biodynamic principles. He acts according to his precepts - spontaneously and intuitively, which is the secret of his stunning success.
Reviews from critics
99/100
1 points
95-100
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90-94
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85-89
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80-84
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75-79
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0-74
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Wine Advocate
William Kelley:"Disgorged after 60 months on the lees, which will now be the standard for this cuvée, Collin's NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Enfers (2016) unwinds in the glass with complex aromas of crisp Anjou pear and stone fruits mingled with pastry cream, toasted almonds and white flowers. Full-bodied, satiny and seamless, it's deep and complete, with racy acids, terrific texture and unerring precision. While my allegiance varies between Les Enfers and Les Roises, depending on the year and the disgorgement, in 2016 it's impossible to choose: both wines are benchmarks for contemporary Champagne".
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