Champagne Ulysse Collin 'Les Maillons' Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut 2017
97/100
75cl

Champagne Ulysse Collin 'Les Maillons' Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut 2017

Vendor code : 463

Ulysse Collin is a small champagne house. All the wines are in the Extra-Brut category. The latest releases from Collin are particularly good, with a rating of 97+ points being more of a regularity than an exception. However, it is surprising that Olivier Collin produces its Champagne wines in sub-regions that are hardly known even to Champagne aficionados (Val de Petit Morin and the Sézannais).

Color

White

Country

France

Region

Champagne

Grape

Pinot Noir

Vintage

2017

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100% Pinot Noir. 40-year-old vines on clay chalk soil. Fermentation in small oak barrels. 36 months aging on lees. And now the most important thing to try it for - is dried mango, papaya, sherry, and yellow apple. The taste has a creamy, pineapple-like start. Caramel on yellow apple. Pleasant oxidative notes before the quenching acidity+minerals pull everything in, creating tension, to the point of discharging. Warm sweetness gradually emerges for a lingering cinnamon cracker finish. "Les Maillons" Blanc de Noirs 2017 is breathtaking...Drink it now or bear it and hold it until 2036.

Ulysse Collin is the only estate in Champagne that produces wines exclusively from individual vineyards: Les Pierrierres, Les Maillons, Les Roises, and Les Enfers. Each vintage is a reflection of one particular terroir. Leading the Champagne estate is Olivier Collin, an inheritor of the winemaking tradition. Olivier's family has been involved in winemaking since 1812 in Coteau du Petit Morin. After the Second World War, René Collin (Olivier's grandfather) increased the family estate's holdings to 18 hectares, began producing his own Champagne wines, and was a respected member of the Club des Viticulteurs Champenois until the 1980s. But in 1987, Olivier's father sold the company and began leasing all the vineyards and cellar to a major brand, effectively ending independent production. As a young student, Olivier took a trip to Burgundy that ultimately changed his life. It was a truly introspective experience and he immediately fell in love with the wines of the region. This sparked a desire to not only reclaim his family's land but also greatly influenced his philosophy of working in the future. Olivier entered law school in 1995 with the secret intention of using the knowledge he had gained to fulfill the daunting task of recovering 8.7 hectares of family estate land from a major negociant. Almost ten years later, Olivier completed a six-month course in viticulture (all the while continuing his studies in law). In 2003, Olivier successfully restored 4.5 hectares of the family estate's vineyards to lease. Starting from scratch, his first purchase was a second-hand tractor so that he could cultivate soils that had not been plowed for 18 years! His second investment was the purchase of used Burgundy barrels (at least four years old). Unfortunately, 2003 proved to be a very difficult year. Olivier had to sell all the grapes to stay solvent and prepare for the next growing season. In the year 2004, Olivier launched his initial vintage of Champagne, producing a total of 5,400 bottles. In 2005, Olivier returned another 4.2 hectares of vines, three of which belonged to his grandparents, as well as the entire winery (including the historic Coquard press) and aging cellar. Olivier does not work according to either organic farming or biodynamic principles. He acts according to his precepts - spontaneously and intuitively, which is the secret of his stunning success.

Reviews from critics

97/100
1 points
95-100
1
90-94
0
85-89
0
80-84
0
75-79
0
0-74
0
97/100
Wine Advocate
William Kelley: "Disgorged in March 2021, the NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Noirs Les Maillons (2017) is based on the 2017 vintage and complemented by fully 70% reserve wines from the 2016 vintage. Bursting with aromas of mirabelle plum, crisp orchard fruit, fresh bread, vanilla pod and clear honey, it's full-bodied, vinous and enveloping, with a lavish core of fruit, bright acids and an enlivening pinpoint mousse. Concentrated and precise, Collin notes that he disgorges this cuvée with slightly higher levels of sulfites than its blanc de blancs counterparts to compensate for the inherent fragility of Pinot Noir".

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