Champagne Ulysse Collin Les Roises Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2016
99/100
75cl

Champagne Ulysse Collin Les Roises Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2016

Vendor code : 465

Ulysse Collin is a small champagne house. All the wines are in the Extra-Brut category. The latest releases from Collin are particularly good, with a rating of 97+ points being more of a regularity than an exception. However, it is surprising that Olivier Collin produces its Champagne wines in sub-regions that are hardly known even to Champagne aficionados (Val de Petit Morin and the Sézannais).

Color

White

Country

France

Region

Champagne

Vintage

2016

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In our humble opinion, Ulysse Collin Les Roises is one of the best Champagnes on the planet and relatively inexpensive, especially considering how difficult it is to find. Les Roises achieves a harmonious balance between richness and bright acidity. Attractive creamy aromas: honey, chalk, chamomile, fleur d'oranger, biscuit, lemon cream, dried apple, and pie. Fresh, energetic, and with potential. Complex but not heavy. Bravo Olivier Collin! Drink now or be patient and hold on until 2040.

Ulysse Collin is the only estate in Champagne that produces wines exclusively from individual vineyards: Les Pierrierres, Les Maillons, Les Roises, and Les Enfers. Each vintage is a reflection of one particular terroir. Leading the Champagne estate is Olivier Collin, an inheritor of the winemaking tradition. Olivier's family has been involved in winemaking since 1812 in Coteau du Petit Morin. After the Second World War, René Collin (Olivier's grandfather) increased the family estate's holdings to 18 hectares, began producing his own Champagne wines, and was a respected member of the Club des Viticulteurs Champenois until the 1980s. But in 1987, Olivier's father sold the company and began leasing all the vineyards and cellar to a major brand, effectively ending independent production. As a young student, Olivier took a trip to Burgundy that ultimately changed his life. It was a truly introspective experience and he immediately fell in love with the wines of the region. This sparked a desire to not only reclaim his family's land but also greatly influenced his philosophy of working in the future. Olivier entered law school in 1995 with the secret intention of using the knowledge he had gained to fulfill the daunting task of recovering 8.7 hectares of family estate land from a major negociant. Almost ten years later, Olivier completed a six-month course in viticulture (all the while continuing his studies in law). In 2003, Olivier successfully restored 4.5 hectares of the family estate's vineyards to lease. Starting from scratch, his first purchase was a second-hand tractor so that he could cultivate soils that had not been plowed for 18 years! His second investment was the purchase of used Burgundy barrels (at least four years old). Unfortunately, 2003 proved to be a very difficult year. Olivier had to sell all the grapes to stay solvent and prepare for the next growing season. In the year 2004, Olivier launched his initial vintage of Champagne, producing a total of 5,400 bottles. In 2005, Olivier returned another 4.2 hectares of vines, three of which belonged to his grandparents, as well as the entire winery (including the historic Coquard press) and aging cellar. Olivier does not work according to either organic farming or biodynamic principles. He acts according to his precepts - spontaneously and intuitively, which is the secret of his stunning success.

Reviews from critics

99/100
1 points
95-100
1
90-94
0
85-89
0
80-84
0
75-79
0
0-74
0
99/100
Wine Advocate
William Kelley:"Disgorged this year after 60 months on the lees, the NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Roises (2016) is brilliant, offering up complex aromas of confit orange, peach, citrus blossom, nutmeg and freshly baked bread, followed by a full-bodied, satiny and layered palate that's broader and more textural than Les Enfers, its deep core of fruit underpinned by racy acids and chalky structure. As I remarked on the wine's palpable levels of dry extract, Collin observed that due to the smaller size of the grapes Les Roises produces (due to fan leaf virus, or court-noué), he's obliged to press harder to liberate the juice, delivering simultaneously more dry extract and a slightly higher pH than adjacent Les Enfers. In addition to the supplemental concentration those smaller berries provide, this surely helps to explain some of the wine's texture and body".

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