The history of Champagne Suenen is marked by transformation, resilience, and an unwavering commitment to quality. This journey began in 2003 when Aurélien Suenen, driven by unforeseen circumstances, left behind a budding career in professional basketball and sports science to support his father, Daniel, following a severe accident. While Daniel eventually recovered, his health declined again, leaving Aurélien, at just 23 years old in 2009, at the helm of the family estate in Cramant.
Having grown up immersed in the vineyard and cellar work, Aurélien was no novice to the world of winemaking. However, he soon embarked on a new course, steering away from the conventional methods practiced by his father. His inspiration came from tasting Champagnes that spoke to him—those rooted in organic practices that emphasized terroir. The quality of these wines connected him with the realization that sustainable methods were essential not only for taste but for health. This conviction was reinforced by observing the health impacts experienced by his father’s generation due to intensive chemical use in the vineyards. With the guidance of influential peers such as Pascal Agrapart and other top growers, Aurélien laid the groundwork for today’s esteemed Champagne Suenen by reducing the size of the estate, moving toward organic cultivation, and abandoning chemical treatments.
Focused Approach and Organic Cultivation
Dating back to 1898, the family Domaine initially spanned more than five hectares, including plots in Montigny-sur-Vesle at the northern boundary of the Champagne region. However, Aurélien soon recognized that achieving his rigorous quality standards required concentrating on fewer vineyards. Consequently, he sold most of the northern plots, retaining only a small portion of ungrafted Pinot Meunier vines in La Grande Vigne, a historical vineyard northwest of Reims.
Today, the estate encompasses 3.2 hectares divided into 17 parcels, primarily located in the Grand Cru villages of Cramant, Chouilly, and Oiry in the Côte des Blancs. These include some old-vine plots, as well as a recent addition from 2020 in Avize. Under Aurélien’s stewardship, the estate has moved toward organic certification, achieved in 2019, and utilizes practices like cover cropping, organic compost, and herbal infusions to maintain vineyard health and soil biodiversity. Renowned soil expert Emmanuel Bourguignon has been an invaluable collaborator, conducting detailed analyses to maximize the expression of each plot’s unique characteristics. Suenen’s approach has halved the yields compared to previous generations, allowing for a focus on greater fruit quality and depth.
Distinctive Wines: The Art of Expression
Champagne Suenen’s range has evolved into two main village blends and four vintage, single-vineyard selections. Of particular note is Champagne Suenen Oiry Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, representing an exclusive offering in the world of pure Oiry wines. This wine showcases the saline, mineral-driven essence of the Oiry terroir, made from 1.5 hectares of vines aged around 45 years on average. These parcels, planted on compact Campanian chalk with minimal topsoil, give the wine its distinctive tension and stony, vibrant profile. Aged for 30 months on lees and produced without fining or filtration, the result is a dynamic and mineral wine, exuding freshness and a creamy texture.
On the other hand, Champagne Suenen C+C Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut brings together nine parcels from both Cramant and Chouilly. With 70% of the blend coming from Cramant’s eastern slopes and 30% from Chouilly’s southern-facing parcels, this cuvée harmonizes Cramant’s finesse and Chouilly’s fuller profile. The blend’s aging process includes nine months on lees in enamel tanks and seasoned oak barrels, followed by 30 months in the bottle. The result is a textured, layered wine that embodies the mineral purity characteristic of the northern Côte des Blancs.
A Tradition Rooted in Sustainable Methods
The influence of Aurélien’s forebears is preserved in his winemaking techniques, albeit with a modern touch. Traditional enamel-lined tanks are still used, but now approximately 25% of Suenen’s wines are aged in wood. This includes a shift from older Côte de Beaune barrels to Stockinger foudres and demi-muids, which provide subtle micro-oxygenation without overtly influencing the wine’s character. A notable addition is an ovoid concrete egg, reserved for special vinifications, such as Oiry’s 1925-planted vines.
Suenen’s focus on natural processes continues through spontaneous fermentation with natural yeast and extended lees aging for both non-vintage and vintage wines. Minimal intervention means no fining or filtration, allowing each cuvée’s unique personality to emerge fully. This commitment to authenticity shines through with the lower dosage, transitioning from brut to extra-brut to highlight the singular qualities of each vineyard plot.
Commitment to Authentic Champagne
A member of the Terre et Vin de Champagne association, Aurélien Suenen embodies the group's ethos of showcasing terroir-driven wines. This collective, comprising 20 passionate growers, emphasizes honest winemaking that celebrates the diversity of Champagne’s soils. Each year, enthusiasts have the opportunity to experience an exclusive tasting of more than 30 distinct terroirs, reaffirming the commitment to authentic, grower-centric Champagne.
Stay tuned for part two, where we will delve deeper into Suenen’s vinification process and explore the philosophy that drives the creation of Champagne Suenen C+C Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut and Oiry Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut.