Building upon its rich history, Champagne Suenen represents a new generation of winemaking that balances tradition with modernity. Aurélien Suenen’s commitment to his craft has propelled the estate forward, creating an unparalleled reputation for wines that express the unique characteristics of their terroirs. In this article, we will explore the meticulous practices in the vineyard and winery that bring Champagne Suenen Oiry Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut and Champagne Suenen C+C Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut to life.
Sustainable Practices in the Vineyard
Aurélien Suenen’s commitment to sustainability began as an essential response to the realities of modern viticulture. He recognized that organic practices were not just beneficial but vital for creating wines that truly reflect the soil and environment from which they come. Under his guidance, the vineyard has seen significant changes. Alongside his long-time collaborator, Christophe Barbier, who has been with the family for over 20 years, Aurélien employs cover cropping and organic compost to nurture the humus and promote a biodiverse soil ecosystem. Herbal infusions further support the vines’ natural defense mechanisms, creating a balanced and healthy vineyard environment.
Organic certification, achieved in 2019, was an important milestone for Champagne Suenen, reinforcing its commitment to eco-friendly cultivation. The estate’s low-yield approach is deliberate, ensuring higher-quality fruit that retains deep flavor and concentration. These yields are substantially lower than those of previous generations, signaling a shift towards quality over quantity.
Collaboration with soil expert Emmanuel Bourguignon has allowed Suenen to understand the subtle differences between plots. Detailed land analyses conducted annually help maximize the potential of each vineyard, with emphasis on the specific needs of each plot. This meticulous attention to detail extends beyond the vineyard; it is central to every stage of winemaking at Champagne Suenen.
Winemaking at Champagne Suenen: Tradition Meets Innovation
In the winery, Aurélien has seamlessly blended tradition with contemporary innovation. Although he continues to use the original enamel-lined tanks that were a staple of his grandfather’s time, approximately a quarter of his production now involves fermentation and aging in wood. This includes a thoughtful transition to Stockinger foudres and demi-muids, selected for their ability to allow subtle micro-oxygenation without imparting strong oak flavors.
The use of an ovoid concrete egg has become a unique aspect of Suenen’s vinification process, providing optimal conditions for fermenting select lots, such as the 1925-planted vines in Oiry’s La Cocluette. This approach complements Suenen’s belief that the natural elements of wood and concrete contribute to the balance and complexity of his wines.
One of the most significant shifts has been the extension of time that wines spend on lees, which now ranges from nine months in cask to up to 60 months in the bottle for vintage lieux-dit wines. This long aging on lees enhances the wine’s structure and brings depth and texture. The wines are minimally processed, avoiding fining, filtration, and cold stabilization to ensure the natural character of the grapes and terroir remains intact.
Aurélien has also lowered the dosage from brut to extra-brut. This subtle change allows the distinct attributes of each vineyard to stand out, highlighting the minerality and freshness that are trademarks of Champagne Suenen.
Exploring the Unique Cuvées of Champagne Suenen
Champagne Suenen Oiry Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut is a standout example of the estate’s dedication to showcasing terroir. This cuvée is sourced from 1.5 hectares spread across five parcels in Oiry, where the soil is notably thin and chalk-rich. The vines, averaging 45 years in age, are rooted in compact, white Campanian chalk, creating a wine with pronounced minerality, tension, and a saline edge. The low yield and organic practices lend themselves to a wine that is vibrant and fresh, with complexity from 30 months of aging on lees.
Aurélien describes the Oiry cuvée as "tonic" due to its tight, coiled structure and stony character. This wine is an exploration of purity, where each sip embodies the essence of Oiry’s distinct terroir. Natural fermentation and aging in enamel-lined tanks (50%) and seasoned Burgundy oak barrels ensure that the integrity of the fruit is preserved. The result is an exceptional wine that is rocky, saline, and endlessly refreshing.
Champagne Suenen C+C Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, by contrast, is a blend that brings together the strengths of both Cramant and Chouilly. This cuvée is composed of nine parcels, with 70% from Cramant’s slopes and 30% from the south-facing parcels of Chouilly. Cramant’s chalky soils, measuring about one meter deep, provide a unique texture and finesse, while Chouilly’s slightly shallower, silty clay-chalk soils contribute richness and body.
This blend results in a wine that balances elegance with opulence, showcasing the best of both villages. The C + C is aged in enamel tanks and old oak barrels for nine months, then spends an additional 30 months aging in the bottle. This careful process amplifies the wine’s layered profile, offering a creamy texture interwoven with mineral precision.
A Vision for the Future
Aurélien Suenen’s vision is rooted in authenticity and respect for the land. His philosophy emphasizes minimal intervention, allowing the natural elements of the vineyard to guide the winemaking process. Moving forward, Suenen plans to continue using natural yeast fermentation across specific plots, gradually shifting to using his own yeast for further distinctiveness.
Malolactic fermentation is allowed to occur naturally, but it is carefully regulated to suit each cuvée’s unique characteristics. For Aurélien, patience is key: wines are only bottled when the conditions are right, ensuring they reach their peak when released.
Conclusion: The Essence of Champagne Suenen
Champagne Suenen is a testament to the powerful connection between sustainable practices and the expression of terroir. Through dedication and meticulous attention, Aurélien Suenen has not only upheld his family’s legacy but elevated it to a level that resonates with modern wine enthusiasts. Each bottle of Champagne Suenen Oiry Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut and Champagne Suenen C+C Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut tells the story of the land, the vines, and the winemaker’s unwavering pursuit of quality.
In the ever-evolving landscape of grower Champagne, Champagne Suenen stands out as a beacon of innovation rooted in tradition, offering wines that invite exploration and reflect the profound subtleties of the northern Côte des Blancs.