Domaine Jean Grivot: from density to finesse
Domaine Jean Grivot is deservedly recognized as one of the leading producers in Vosne-Romanée. Founded by a family, this domaine is deeply connected to the local community. In the 1980s, Jean Grivot, Etienne Grivot's father, was well known at tastings in London, although by then Etienne was already producing wine.
Etienne noticed that the wines sometimes lacked density and decided to follow the recommendations of the oenologist Guy Accad, which had a strong influence on the style of the wines. Akkad's methods, emphasizing intense color and intense extraction, attracted criticism for reducing the uniqueness of the terroir in favor of the homogeneity of the wines. However, the collaboration between Etienne and Accad lasted only five years.
First-class location
Etienne Grivot certainly benefits from having three grand cru sites, including the famous Richebourg, as well as a wide range of premier cru sites in both Vosne-Romanée and Nuits-St-Georges. Of particular note is his Brûlées premier cru, which is spread over three southern terraces. Each terrace is reinforced by a dry stone wall built to prevent erosion and maintain the structure of the terraces. This wall, built with the combined efforts of Grivot, Eugénie, and Guyon, cost €150,000.
Here is another interesting point: the Domaine Eugénie team cultivates the lower terrace belonging to Domaine Jean Grivot, while the upper terrace is plowed by the Guyon team. This is because the tractors cannot turn around without damaging the vines, causing the winemakers to help each other out. Although such cooperation seems to be commonplace, there are winegrowers in the area with such long-standing grudges that they no longer remember the reasons for them and are reluctant to come to each other's aid.
From all this, it is evident that Etienne Grivot values good relations with his neighbors and they mutually respect him. Communicating with Etienne confirms that he is indeed an outstanding person.
However, the history of the Brûlées plot is not limited to facts alone. It turns out that Étienne Grivot was offered to exchange a plot with vines that were over 60 years old. Etienne declined the offer, but his relationship with his colleague did not deteriorate and they remained friends.
Many of these ancient vines were already exhausted and could not cope with heavy harvests. Grivot has decided to gradually renew them, replacing about 2% of the vines each year.
Etienne says, "I would rather replace the oldest vines than leave my children a domaine that loses production year after year."
Practically organic methodology
Domaine Jean Grivot's winemaking methods are close to organic, although Etienne chooses to apply treatments as needed. He is not fanatical about the concepts of "organic", biodynamic, or "natural" winemaking. However, he does use fewer treatments than his neighbors who adhere to organic methods.
If you've been to visit Grivot, you've probably met his noble horse, one of those now plowing prestigious vineyards, notably Echézeaux. Using horses in vineyards is a costly process as the horse is only able to plow one side of the row at a time, requiring a second pass to plow the other side.
Plowing with a horse is great because the soil is less compacted, but you need a very experienced plowman, says Grivot, when asked why a horse. What's more, by the horse's reaction, Grivot determines how wet or stony an area can be.
Etienne Grivot also adapts the vinification process depending on the conditions of the harvest. He starts by producing a basic Burgundy wine, analyzing the data obtained during fermentation, which he then applies to the creation of more important wines.
Influence on the form
Grivot's career has proved to be rather tortuous. He joined the family domaine in 1982 and soon realised that the quality of the wines was not meeting expectations. Seeking improvement, he sought advice from authorities such as Patrick Bizet, Christophe Roumier, and Dominique Lafon and realized that his potential was far greater.
In 1987, he began a collaboration with Guy Accad to improve the quality of the wine. Although this decision attracted criticism, some of Akkad's techniques, such as long cold soak, are now widespread.
Also untrue is the claim that Accad recommended that Grivot use excessive amounts of sulfur dioxide to delay the onset of fermentation.
When Etienne Grivot realized that the methods were reaching their limits, he decided to end the collaboration. Grivot then began producing wines with more freshness that aged well, although they still looked monolithic in their youth.
Since 2000, Etienne has aimed to create wines that have a special charm and avoid overripeness.
Point adjustments, including controlled temperature control, have been aimed at creating wines that are characterized by balance and lightness. It is evident from Grivot's style that he appreciates the feminine qualities of Pinot Noir and finds over-extracted wines tedious.
Etienne Grivot's methods continue to improve. "You can never say you've reached your peak," he asserts.
Grivot believes that his decades of winemaking have been a journey that continues. It's a movement called "from density to finesse." It's also worth noting that buyers can still find a wide variety of styles in Burgundy, and that's much better than monotony.