The Vineyards and Approach of Philippe Colin in Chassagne-Montrachet
Chassagne-Montrachet, located in the southern reaches of Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune, is renowned for its exceptional white wines crafted from Chardonnay and a smaller proportion of red wines from Pinot Noir. The commune's vineyards extend across diverse soils and microclimates, providing a canvas for terroir-driven winemaking. This focus on terroir is central to the philosophy of Philippe Colin, a winemaker who produces a wide array of wines, primarily from Chassagne-Montrachet and nearby appellations, including Puligny-Montrachet, Saint-Aubin, and Santenay. The Domaine Philippe Colin operates on 13 hectares, with two-thirds dedicated to white wine production and one-third to red.
The current form of Domaine Philippe Colin emerged after the split of Domaine Colin-Deléger in 2004. Philippe and his brother Bruno chose to divide the 18-hectare family estate, allowing each to pursue their individual visions. Philippe retained nine hectares, later expanding to 13 hectares. The domaine has since become a prominent name in Burgundy, offering a range of wines, including:
- Philippe Colin Bourgogne Chardonnay,
- Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet,
- Philippe Colin Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Combes,
- Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées Clos Saint-Abdon,
- Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes,
- Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly,
- Philippe Colin Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Demoiselles,
- Philippe Colin Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru.
Commitment to Terroir
A strong advocate for the expression of terroir, Philippe Colin produces 20 to 25 different wines each year, representing distinct plots and appellations. He maintains that every vineyard has unique characteristics worth preserving, and this principle drives his winemaking. For instance, the Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet is a blend of 15 parcels from different parts of the appellation, including lieux-dits like Voillenot Dessous and Les Charrières. During vinification, the parcels are kept separate before blending, balancing the lighter, mineral-driven wines from the Puligny side with the more powerful wines from the Santenay side.
His approach to Chassagne-Montrachet premier crus underscores the influence of even minor differences in soil composition and location. The Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées Clos Saint-Abdon is situated at the highest point of the slope, with shallow limestone soils imparting a characteristic minerality. Just below, the Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers and Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes display differing profiles based on soil depth and clay content.
The exploration of terroir extends beyond Chassagne-Montrachet. In the neighboring village of Puligny-Montrachet, Philippe Colin produces the Philippe Colin Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Demoiselles, sourced from a small, well-drained plot adjacent to the legendary Le Montrachet. Similarly, his grand cru offering, Philippe Colin Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, reflects the higher elevation and limestone-rich soils of the slope, resulting in wines that showcase the potential of this prestigious vineyard.
Viticultural Practices and Winemaking
Philippe Colin employs a sustainable approach in the vineyards, adhering to lutte raisonnée. This system minimizes chemical intervention, focusing on preserving soil health and biodiversity while protecting the vines when necessary. He emphasizes that good winemaking begins with good grapes, a principle evident across all his wines, including Philippe Colin Bourgogne Chardonnay and Philippe Colin Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Combes. Vines in these plots are trained using the single Guyot method, with an average age of 25 to 50 years, depending on the vineyard.
In the cellar, Philippe Colin takes a measured approach to oak aging. He uses 20–25% new oak and employs a mix of traditional 228-liter barrels and larger 450–500-liter barrels. This balance ensures a nuanced integration of oak, enhancing the structure and texture of the wines without overpowering the expression of terroir. This method is applied consistently across the range, from village wines such as Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet to premier and grand cru offerings like Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly and Philippe Colin Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru.
Historical Context and Domaine Development
The decision to split Domaine Colin-Deléger allowed Philippe to refine his personal winemaking philosophy. While his methods maintain continuity with the family's traditions, he has embraced innovations, such as the use of larger barrels and experimenting with new techniques in the vineyards. These changes are guided by respect for the land and a desire to enhance the natural expression of the wines.
Philippe’s attention to detail is evident in his handling of smaller, lesser-known plots like Philippe Colin Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Demoiselles, which produces only 300 bottles annually. Despite its modest size, this vineyard reflects the diversity of soils within the Côte de Beaune, demonstrating the domaine’s commitment to exploring and highlighting Burgundy’s varied terroirs.
The Wines of Domaine Philippe Colin and Terroir Expression
The exploration of terroir within Domaine Philippe Colin extends across multiple appellations, each contributing to a diverse portfolio of wines. The focus remains on showcasing the individuality of each vineyard, from regional Bourgogne wines to prestigious grand crus. This dedication is exemplified through meticulous vineyard management and careful vinification practices, ensuring that each cuvée reflects its origins.
Specific Vineyard Insights
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Crus
Among the premier crus of Chassagne-Montrachet, several plots stand out for their unique characteristics. Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes lies directly below Les Vergers and Les Chaumées. Its heavier clay soils impart a powerful structure and a distinctive spiced profile. The vines, some as old as 80 years, contribute to the vineyard’s consistency in expressing its terroir.
Higher up the slope, Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées Clos Saint-Abdon is known for its rocky soils with a higher limestone content. These conditions bring a pronounced mineral expression. Despite being situated just above Les Vergers, this plot produces wines with a more immediate and accessible character, highlighting the importance of slight variations in elevation and soil composition.
En Remilly and Puligny-Montrachet
The Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly vineyard, perched above Le Montrachet and bordering Chevalier-Montrachet, features shallow soils with crumbled stones and a limestone-rich substructure. These characteristics are ideal for crafting wines with a focused expression of site-specific qualities. Similarly, the Philippe Colin Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Demoiselles showcases the diversity of Puligny-Montrachet, where light, well-drained soils yield wines with distinct profiles tied to their proximity to the legendary Montrachet vineyards.
Grand Cru: Chevalier-Montrachet
The crown jewel of Domaine Philippe Colin’s holdings is the Philippe Colin Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, situated on the Puligny-Montrachet slope. This vineyard is known for its steep incline, well-drained soils, and a mix of limestone and calcareous clay. Vines planted between 1955 and 1978 ensure a balance of maturity and vigor. This grand cru consistently delivers wines that combine power and finesse, reflecting the unique terroir of one of Burgundy’s most celebrated sites.
Blending and Vinification
While terroir differentiation is a hallmark of Philippe Colin’s wines, there are instances where blending enhances the final product. For the Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet, a village-level wine, fruit from 15 parcels is vinified separately before being combined. This approach balances the lighter, mineral-driven character of Puligny-side plots with the richer, more powerful expressions from the Santenay side, resulting in a cohesive wine that represents the broader appellation.
In all cases, vinification is designed to preserve the integrity of the fruit and the characteristics of the vineyard. Oak aging is carefully controlled, with a mix of traditional 228-liter barrels and larger 450–500-liter barrels. This method is applied consistently across the range, from the entry-level Philippe Colin Bourgogne Chardonnay to the premier and grand cru offerings.
Neighboring Appellations and Diversity
Domaine Philippe Colin’s reach extends beyond Chassagne-Montrachet. The Philippe Colin Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Combes, sourced from a plot bordering Chassagne-Montrachet’s Les Chenevottes, highlights the influence of the cooler, valley-driven microclimate in Saint-Aubin. The vineyard’s limestone and clay soils, combined with an easterly aspect, contribute to wines with a defined structure. This inclusion of neighboring appellations enriches the domaine’s portfolio while maintaining a clear focus on terroir expression.
Philosophy and Practices
Philippe Colin’s commitment to sustainable viticulture is evident in his use of lutte raisonnée. By limiting chemical inputs to the minimum required, he ensures the health of the vines and the surrounding ecosystem. This approach reflects his belief that high-quality wine starts in the vineyard. While not adopting biodynamic principles, Philippe remains attentive to innovations in viticulture within the region, integrating practices that align with his philosophy.
In the cellar, his use of oak is designed to complement rather than dominate the wine. The restrained use of new oak—between 20 and 25%—ensures the focus remains on the vineyard’s expression. Larger barrels are increasingly utilized to achieve a subtle integration of wood, a practice that has evolved since 2010.
Conclusion
Domaine Philippe Colin exemplifies the best of Chassagne-Montrachet winemaking, where respect for tradition is balanced with thoughtful innovation. From the Philippe Colin Bourgogne Chardonnay to the prestigious Philippe Colin Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, each wine is a testament to the diversity and potential of Burgundy’s terroirs. By producing a wide range of wines, Philippe Colin not only highlights the individuality of each vineyard but also celebrates the shared identity of the region. His meticulous attention to detail ensures that every bottle reflects its origins, providing a comprehensive exploration of Chassagne-Montrachet and its neighboring appellations. These wines can be purchased at the best price from Lambier Wines, thanks to the company’s direct contract with the producer, ensuring both authenticity and value.