The fact that the complete story of this domaine isn’t more widely recognized likely comes from Bruno Clair’s humble personality and the unassuming reputation of his home village, Marsannay. Yet anyone with an appreciation for Burgundy’s history will understand that this is genuinely one of the region’s foremost estates.
Domaine Bruno Clair Morey-Saint-Denis Blanc En la Rue de Vergy 2022 is made from Chardonnay grown on a 0.578-hectare plot planted in 1996. Situated at 320m on limestone soils with Premeaux limestone and white oolites beneath, the south-east exposure brings freshness and balance. The wine is fermented in stainless steel vats for 2–3 weeks, then aged for 18 months in oak barrels, around 15% new. This Morey-Saint-Denis Blanc opens with notes of pear, green apple, sweet citrus fruit and fresh pastry. Medium-bodied and elegantly satiny on the palate, it captures the finesse of En la Rue de Vergy.
Today, Domaine Bruno Clair manages its vineyards according to organic principles, although it does not pursue formal certification. Chemical treatments and herbicides are largely avoided, with flexibility only in particularly challenging years. Herbicides are completely banned, and extensive use of cover crops helps to naturally rejuvenate and enrich the soils. While Pinot Noir and Chardonnay form the backbone of the domaine’s production, there’s also a distinctive Marsannay Rosé made from Pinot Noir and small quantities of Aligoté. A testament to the domaine’s deep-rooted heritage is the exceptional age of its vines: about two-thirds of the Clos de Bèze vineyard was planted in 1912, and across the estate, the average vine age is an impressive 50 years. Among the highlights of their collection is the Morey-Saint-Denis Blanc En la Rue de Vergy 2022. This rare white from limestone-rich soils captures the elegance and brightness of Chardonnay, delivering lively citrus, delicate floral touches and a subtle mineral thread that speaks both of its terroir and the domaine’s careful craftsmanship.